How the BBQ Community Rallied Around Western NC in the Aftermath of Hurricane Helene

Note: a version of this article originally appeared last month in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.

Monk: On September 27th, Hurricane Helene made its way to the mountains of North Carolina and wreaked once-in-a-hundred years worth of damage, referred on some accounts as “pure devastation and chaos.” Entire towns were reduced to rubble, roads and highways washed away from landslides, and hundreds of thousands of lives were changed forever.

Having grown up in North Carolina for nearly all my life, I (along with many others) have a fondness for that part of the state which is approximately 2+ hours west of Charlotte. Not only Asheville, the most well known of the affected cities, but smaller communities like Linville Gorge, Chimney Rock, Hot Springs, Hendersonville, Little Switzerland, and countless other towns set amongst the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains.

The barbecue community has unfortunately become quite good at responding to these types of events. The bad news is that the road to recovery is only beginning but the good news is that help is coming from a number of places: international and national organizations, barbecue restaurants from the unaffected parts of the state, and local restaurants in western NC that are in a fortunate position to help out.

As has become an unfortunately regular occurrence, World Central Kitchen and Chef José Andrés were on the ground pretty much from the beginning, much as they have done over the past 14 years in places such as Haiti, Türkiye, Syria, Gaza, as well as throughout the US. They have been offering hot meals to anyone affected by the natural disaster as well as first responders such as the National Guard, Army, and FEMA. In western NC they’ve set up their hub at Bear’s Smokehouse BBQ in Asheville and with help from Goldsboro-based Cheshire Pork they are feeding the communities of Asheville, Black Mountain, Swannanoa, Bat Cave, Bakersville, amongst others.

Similarly, Operation BBQ Relief is on the ground in Florida, Georgia, and NC offering free meals to individuals as well as bulk meals for churches, schools, or neighborhoods and Big Green Egg is also matching donations to Operation BBQ Relief’s Rally for Recovery fundraiser up to $50,000. And in an unfortunate circumstance, they are already on the ground for the next storm, Hurricane Milton, which is set to hit Florida this week.

In the central and eastern parts of North Carolina that weren’t affected as much by Helene, barbecue restaurants are also coordinating donations to bring safely to the mountains. In the Triangle region, both Lawrence Barbecue in Durham and Dampf Good BBQ in Cary collected donations of essential items such as bottled water, diapers, baby formula, while Clyde Cooper’s BBQ in Raleigh collected pet food and supplies and Blues on Franklin in Chapel Hill donated pre-cooked barbecue in addition to essential supplies.

Similarly, in the Charlotte Midwood Smokehouse collected essential items at their Plaza Midwood location for donation while Sweet Lew’s BBQ and the Carolina BBQ Festival used their already-planned Fall Pig Pickin’ on October 6th to collect donations and supplies for the relief effort before Sweet Lew’s set up at Regina’s in west Asheville on Tuesday to feed those in need. Jon G’s Barbecue conducted a blanket drive in preparation for the coming winter and also donated wood and supplies directly to Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue for their efforts (more on that later).

Then there are the barbecue restaurants in the western part of the state that are doing their part even as they were in the affected areas. In the small town of Little Switzerland off the Blue Ridge Parkway, the NC Historic Barbecue Trail joint Switzerland Cafe and General Store are not only offering free snacks, water, and over-the-counter meds in front of their cafe but are also acting as a central distribution center as well as a Starlink hotspot with a generator so folks can charge phones and make calls to reach loved ones.

Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue is a firefighter-owned barbecue trailer that regularly operates in cities between Asheville and Bryson City towards the far western part of the state. They too are also feeding people in need, in part from generous donations from Sysco, TMG Pits out of Knoxville, Jon G’s Barbecue, and even individual citizens.

Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue has also partnered with Unkie’s Seasoning out of Franklin, VA to donate a portion of sales of their seasonings and rubs to the Team Ryan Project to support firefighters and their families.

I will add, this is by no means a comprehensive list of all the barbecue restaurants and individuals throughout the state are conducting similar efforts, whether it be feeding those in need or first responders, collecting donations, or donating supplies. The road to recovery and rebuild in western NC is only beginning and will be marked in years instead of months, but one thing I’m certain of is that the barbecue community will continue to do its part long after the nightmare that was Hurricane Helene has left our memories.

If you are inclined to send money, you can donate to the North Carolina Disaster Relief Fund here.

North Carolina State Parks and Recreation staff raised the flag back at Chimney Rock on September 30th

What’s The Difference Between Western and Eastern North Carolina BBQ?

Monk: Quick (and I mean super quick) primer on NC barbecue styles from North Carolina Pork Council CEO Roy Lee Lindsey.

Description: North Carolina Pork Council CEO Roy Lee Lindsey explains the difference between Western and Eastern North Carolina BBQ… which is your preference?

Hubba Hubba Smokehouse – Flat Rock, NC

Name: Hubba Hubba Smokehouse
Date: 5/27/21
Address: 2724 Greenville Highway, Flat Rock, NC 28731
Order: Indecision plate (pork + brisket), collard greens, sautéed slaw, cornbread (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Speedy: I had heard about Hubba Hubba Smokehouse a few years ago and had always wanted to go, but due to seasonal opening and limited hours, along with being tucked away in Flat Rock, NC, I hadn’t had the chance to make it over. However, the recent retirement and move of Mama and Papa Speedy to just 20 miles away afforded me the opportunity on my latest visit.

Monk: Hopefully you heard about them when I visited a couple years ago and also when we profiled their pitmaster Spencer Purcell. But you may have also heard of them from their addition to the Historic NC Barbecue Trail a few years back.

Speedy: Hubba Hubba is tucked away in a small plaza off Greenville Highway, along with a couple of other food establishments. The building itself is a small brick building that holds the smokehouse and kitchen, with all of their seating outside. I went to the counter and placed my order, then found a seat in the courtyard.

My name was called in short order and it was time to dig in. I judge any NC barbecue restaurant on the pulled pork, and Hubba Hubba passed that test with flying colors. The pork was tender, smoky, and moist. I didn’t add any of the sauces available, but I do think the vinegar sauce would have added a little tang (they also have a NC sweet and a mustard sauce). While I prefer finer chopped pork (Lexington style), overall, I enjoyed this pulled pork quite a lot, and will order again. 

Monk: I tried the pork with their vinegar sauce just a week earlier myself while passing through on my way to Brevard, and it was definitely a great combo.

Speedy: There have been a few places in the Carolinas doing Texas-style brisket, but Hubba Hubba’s is different. It does not have the same richness and peppery bark, but still has good peppery taste. For one bite, I prefer the Texas-style, but also there was not the same gut-bomb feeling after eating. I think this brisket is better suited for a sandwich, but still solid, if not spectacular. 

Monk: Agreed that they aren’t trying to replicate a central Texas-style brisket, but I also dug what they are doing.

Speedy: I usually just gloss over sides both when eating and reviewing barbecue restaurants, but every once in a while, there’s a side that’s just so good that it deserves some extra attention. The collard greens fit that bill. They were fresh, tangy, and delicious, with bits of pork included. Overall, these were among the very best collards I’ve had and a must order.

The sautéed slaw was not my favorite, as I like the contrast of crisp and crunchy slaw in a barbecue meal, so I’d probably skip those next time. However, pitmaster Spencer was nice enough to bring me a side of a new menu item – the Brunswick stew. According to Spencer, this will be added to the menu soon, and that’s something I’m happy about. The stew was a little sweeter than I’m used to in a Brunswick stew, but very flavorful. Another very solid item.

Monk: Looking back, I’m surprised we didn’t order the collards on my previous visit but I’ll have to get them next time along with that delicious-sounding Brunswick stew.

Speedy: Overall, Hubba Hubba Smokehouse is one of the better barbecue meals that I’ve had in Western NC. I’m glad to finally have the opportunity to check it out and hope to be back soon.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 2.5 hogs
Brisket – 3 hogs
Pork – 4.5 hogs
Sides – 4 hogs
Overall – 4 hogs

Linkdown: 5/19/21

Featured

This latest piece of controversial barbecue list content from one “chefspencil.com” has been rightly getting roasted online since the weekend, but perhaps that was the intent all along? I mean, who had even heard of “chefspencil.com,” an Austrialian website, before this list?

The list allegedly uses data from TripAdvisor and phew buddy TripAdvisor is not happy about any connection to th list and its backlash.

New Orlean’s at number 1? Red flag. No Texas cities on the list? Red flag. As for Charlotte’s rank of 3 on the list? I say this as a Charlotte resident, but red flag. I’m not the only Charlottean who feels this way. Enter Kathleen Purvis:

Let’s declare a moratorium on any further discussion or outrage on anything “chefspencil.com” related, particularly when it comes to barbecue.

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