Union Barbecue

Charlotte’s Got a Lot (of Barbecue Styles)

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“Charlotte is not really in either part of North Carolina, it’s a city of newcomers and we have other people’s barbecue.“

Monk: When I think of Charlotte barbecue, more often than not I tend to have the above quote in my head from Tom Hanchett, the former historian at Charlotte’s Levine Museum of the New South. Charlotte’s barbecue scene has grown steadily in the twelve years since Barbecue Bros started but that growth has not typically been because of restaurants that are serving strictly traditional North Carolina barbecue.

In the spirit of the official slogan of Charlotte’s Regional Visitor’s Authority (“Charlotte’s Got a Lot”), here are the styles of other people’s barbecue you can find in the Queen City.

Texas Barbecue: Jon G’s Barbecue

Jon G’s Barbecue still remains the best barbecue available in Charlotte, and Texas Monthly Barbecue Editor Daniel Vaughn thinks its even one of the top 10 Texas barbecue joints in the country (outside of Texas). I have always found Garren and Kelly Kirkman’s barbecue joint to be remarkably consistent, whether I’m at one of their weekly food truck services around the greater Charlotte area or at the restaurant in Peachland, where they’ve turned Barbecue Saturdays at their restaurant into a destination-worthy event for travelers from all across the southeast and even United States. 116 Glenn Falls St, Peachland, NC 28133 jongsbarbecue.com

Tex-Mex Barbecue: Union Barbecue

Earlier this year, Chefs Holden Sasser and Chase Young burst onto the Charlotte barbecue scene with “new school barbecue” and “Mexican flavors” in the form of their Union Barbecue food truck. Sasser is actually a Charlotte native who recently relocated back from San Francisco, where he worked in food technology and did barbecue pop-ups in his free time. Meats range from beef cheek barbacoa to pork carnitas to brisket (all served with house made tortillas) and they’ve got some seriously awesome, inventive sides. unionbarbecue.com

Midlands South Carolina Barbecue: Sweet Lew’s BBQ

In late 2023 Sweet Lew’s BBQ celebrated 5 years open, a nice milestone for the ever-changing Belmont neighborhood restaurant. One thing that’s been on the menu for a few years now is the Midlands, South Carolina specialty hash and rice (or barbecue hash or, simply, hash). There’s a lot to like about the other meats on the menu, but definitely don’t sleep on the hash. 923 Belmont Ave, Charlotte, NC 28205 sweetlewsbbq.com

Kansas City Barbecue: Midwood Smokehouse

While Midwood Smokehouse is more of what barbecue author John Shelton Reed calls an “international house of barbecue” with multiple styles on their menu, they were one of the first restaurants in Charlotte to offer burnt ends smoked out of their Oyler smoker when they opened in 2011. Multiple locations midwoodsmokehouse.com

Lexington Barbecue: Resident Culture Brewing

Another recent entrant to the Charlotte barbecue scene is Resident Culture Brewing, who last year brought on Chef Edmar Simoes (previously of Noble Smoke and Saucemans) to start their barbecue program out of the South End location of the brewery in late 2023. Simoes is actually Brazilian-born but has taken to American barbecue (as evidenced by his Instagram handle “american_bbq”) and learned the ways of Lexington-style barbecue from his time at Noble Smoke. Throw some barbecue slaw and some vinegar sauce onto a bit of barbecue, and you might as well be 60 minutes north on I-85. 332 W Bland St. Suite C Charlotte, NC 28203 residentculturebrewing.com

Union Barbecue has Burst onto the Charlotte Barbecue Scene with New School Barbecue and Mexican Flavors

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Name: Union Barbecue
Date: 8/17/24
Location: N/A
Order: Carnitas, brisket, Smoky Sweet, Golden Beet Salad, The Big Deborah
Pricing: $$

Monk: In recent years, the Charlotte barbecue scene has seemingly embraced Mexican or Tex-Mex flavors into Texas-style barbecue. Way back in the before times of January 2020, Midwood Smokehouse brought Miguel Vidal of Valentina’s Tex-Mex Barbecue in Austin to Charlotte for a few days for some consultation and their current menu is a reflection of that between the Yucatan ribs, taquitos appetizer, and their updated offerings of “Tex-Mex Tacos.”

There’s also Fumar (which is the rebrand of Smoke Show Barbecue) from Chef Brandon Belfer, who offers “taco packs” with beef cheek barbacoa and home made tortillas alongside specials that can include brisket tortas and Frito pies.

Then, earlier this year a new food truck called Union Barbecue from Chefs Holden Sasser and Chase Young burst onto the Charlotte barbecue scene with “new school barbecue” and “Mexican flavors.” They even got a mention from Texas Monthly Barbecue Editor Daniel Vaughn in a February post on his NC travels that praised their “smoky and spicy” beef cheek barbacoa.

Sasser recently relocated from San Francisco (where he was where he working by day in the food technology industry and spending nights and weekends doing barbecue pop-ups) to Charlotte, but he is no stranger to the city as he is the son of Tom Sasser who owns the Burke Hospitality Group whose restaurants include longtime Charlotte staples such as Mimosa Grill and the recently departed Harper’s. But make no mistake about it, Holden and Young can smoke their version of Tex-Mex barbecue well. At a recent food truck stop at Birdsong Brewing, I finally got a chance to try their wares.

For this stop, their protein menu consisted of barbacoa, al pastor sausage, carnitas, brisket, and a smoked pork chop. Seeing as I was with the wife and kids, I had a hard time picking two that I know would make up a sensible lunch order so I went with the brisket and carnitas. Based on the success of these, I’ll be trying each of their other proteins next time around.

The carnitas came in a boat and were topped with salsa verde and pickled onions. Put this into a homemade tortilla and you’ve got a great taco but its also quite good on its own.

The brisket order came with a slice of both fatty and lean, which I was happy to see was the default. Both slides were perfectly moist with a peppery bark. There was a big vein of fat running through the fatty slice that could have been a little more rendered but by no means was it disqualifying. Magnificent brisket.

Don’t sleep on the sides, as both the Smoky Sweet potato topped with smoked crema, pepitas, sunflower seeds, and tajin and the Golden Beet Salad served cold were some of the best barbecue sides I’ve had in recent memory.

And especially don’t sleep on The Big Deborah if you’re a fan of oatmeal cream pies. It’s the best dessert I’ve had all year and its a great value for just $4.50.

In last week’s review of Resident Culture Brewing’s barbecue program, I noted how it was helping to expand the top tier of Charlotte barbecue. Well, with Union Barbecue, it has solidly displaced some of the top joints in the city. Behind only Jon G’s Barbecue, for me it is the best barbecue in Charlotte. Seek it out and you won’t be disappointed.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – N/A
Pork – 4.5 Hogs
Brisket – 4.5 Hogs
Sides – 4.5 Hogs
Overall – 4.5 Hogs

Linkdown: 5/22/24 – The Three-Time Grand Champions Edition

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Monk: The Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest was held this past weekend in Memphis, and The Shed yet again took home the Grand Champion and Whole Hog titles. The Grand Champion title was the third for the 17-time competition team from Ocean Springs, MS led by brother and sister Brad Orrison and Brooke Lewis.

The full list of winners in other categories are on their website. Of note, Big Bob Gibson and Chris Lilly took home yet another Pork Shoulder title.

Of note, the upstart barbecue competition SmokeSlam also took place the same weekend at Tom Lee Park, the former site of the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.

Here were the winners of SmokeSlam:

Native News

Friends of the blog The Low and Slow Barbecue Show featured Jon G’s Barbecue

Union Barbecue is a newer barbecue food truck in Charlotte native Holden Sasser

Pizza Peel in the Plaza Midwood is closing after a decade open and is turning into an Improper Pig

Mike D’s BBQ in east Durham but got a couple of lifelines through a Rapid Recovery loan  from The NC Rural Center

Non-Native News

City Limits Barbeque has been testing out pork steaks

Smoke Queen Barbecue is run by Winnie Yee-Lakhani and was recently featured by J.C. Reid in a recent profile

After last week’s tornadoes, many Houston restaurants are still without power including Gatlin’s BBQ and Feges BBQ

Daniel Vaughn digs up the first article on Franklin Barbecue

Linkdown: 1/24/24 – The Buc-ee’s Coming to Mebane Edition

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Monk: Daniel Vaughn (aka BBQ Snob), Barbecue Editor for Texas Monthly, made a trip to North Carolina last week (with a jag up to Norfolk) to taste what the Old North State has to currently offer in terms of Texas barbecue. Long story short, he was “blown away” by the “staggeringly good” barbecue he tasted on this trip. The stops he called out:

  • Jon G’s Barbecue – Peachland
  • Dampf Good BBQ – Cary
  • Old Colony Smokehouse – Edenton
  • Lawrence Barbecue – Durham
  • Sweet Lew’s BBQ – Charlotte
  • Union Barbecue – Charlotte
  • Redwood Smoke – Norfolk, VA

For the Charlotte area, no surprise that he remains a fan of Jon G’s, but good to see Sweet Lew’s gets a shoutout as well as newcomer Union Barbecue, whom I haven’t had a chance to try yet. Dampf Good and Old Colony are on my list as well for NC.

You may recall that Vaughn did a similar trip through South Carolina and Georgia last summer where he praised City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia and Fork Grove Barbecue in Anderson among others. I would expect a similar story in the next week or so about North Carolina, and I can’t wait to read it.

Native News

At Morris Barbeque in Hookerton in the 60s, Joe the Monkey was a regular fixture

Firehawk Brewpub is hosting a 5 course, family-style dinner featuring the smoked specialties of Chefs Scott Blackwood and Chris Coleman as well as cocktails from Mixologist Bob Peters; tickets available here

New hours for Clyde Cooper’s in Raleigh

ICYMI Buc-ees is coming to Mebane

Non-Native News

Daniel Vaughn remembers John Brotherton

City Limits Barbeque is selling their own pimento cheese now

Direct-heat ribs vs smoked ribs: who you got???