In Defense of Gassers : TMBBQ

The article defends gassers to a certain extent but ends on the point that still, smoking over a wood fire is preferable. Where it gets interesting is in the shots fired at Daniel Vaughn (TMBBQ editor) and to a certain extent Aaron Franklin on both this article on TMBBQ and a duplicate post on Texas Monthly, the parent site (the dual posting with separate comments seems peculiar to me).

Finally, Daniel, I’m a bit skeptical about your ability to tell the difference, a) because having someone use a tool new to them is no kind of basis for comparison, and b) because Franklin wraps their BBQ which itself is going to make it soggy. I asked for untrimmed brisket (which, annoyingly, ended up being a shock and ordeal for them to go get a fresh brisket) and it had a lot of caramely bark. Was it comparable to a place like Black’s or Kreuz? No. But it was comparable to other good BBQ joints that use all wood.

At this point, you’re really making pains to say something is true because you want it to be true more than because it is true, I think. I understand the nostalgia and the aesthetic, but even you and Aaron, who are both obviously quite prejudiced, are having to stretch the bounds of rationality to separate the two in substantive ways.

Another one:

Good gosh, Mr. Vaughn, you ought to do a little research before you post whatever the young Mr. Franklin tells you. He is a purist and he obviously knows a great deal about cooking good barbecue with indirect smoke. He does not know all there is to know about gas assisted units.

I’ll be interested to see if there is a direct response from Vaughn.

-Monk

In Defense of Gassers : TMBBQ

The TMBBQ Barbecue Editor Disputes a Tar Heel

A (mostly) friendly correspondence between Texas Monthly BBQ Editor Daniel Vaughn and author John Shelton Reed regarding the merits of their respective region’s barbecue. Some great information here on the history of North Carolina barbecue and thus, all barbecue in the United States.

More history from the professor (sorry): You first encounter something that is undeniably real barbecue in the 1600′s, in the Caribbean, where Indians had been cooking fish and birds and reptiles low-and-slow with wood from time immemorial. When Europeans showed up with hogs (note: hogs) the locals realized that this is what the Lord meant to be barbecued, and soon they were into pig-pickings in a big way. And they didn’t just cook a hog. At a 1698 feast described by a Dominican missionary, the meat was mopped with a mixture of lemon juice, salt, and chile peppers and served with a similar table sauce in two strengths, hot or mild. In time, this sauce came to the Carolinas (where the lemon juice was replaced by more easily obtained vinegar) and it spread inland. Barbecue historian Robert Moss shows that by the time of the Civil War this sauce was employed everywhere in the United States (yes, even Texas). This is the ur-sauce, the one from which all others descend, the perfection from which others have devolved.

-Monk

The TMBBQ Barbecue Editor Disputes a Tar Heel