Monk: Bon Appetit walks through the opening of King BBQ with chef and owner Shuai Wang and pitmaster Brandon Olson. Those pre-open tasks start at 6:00 AM and include firing up the smoker, seasoning ribs, butchering duck and ribs for the following day, putting together and doing social media for the day’s special (BLT), assembling the deep fried shrimp toast sliders appetizer. Before you know it, its opening time and Shuai is kicking the cameras out of the restaurant.
King BBQ was already on my list but after watching this video and getting a better sense of the food, I am definitely prioritizing a visit here next time I’m in the Holy City. What do you think?
Description: “The hanging meats in the windows, the crispy whole pork, the soy sauce chicken–that’s my definition of BBQ. I also wanted to showcase Carolina-style BBQ so incorporating smoke into Chinatown-style BBQ.” Today Bon Appetit spends a day on the line with Shuai Wang, chef and owner of King BBQ in North Charleston, Carolina. At his restaurant, Wang puts a southern spin on his Chinatown-style dishes inspired by his years living in Flushing, New York.
Note: a version of this article originally appeared last month in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.
Monk: The Jon G’s Jubilee is part barbecue festival and part birthday celebration, with the first edition in 2023 created in honor of the 40th birthday of co-owner and pitmaster Garren Kirkman. This year, I made my way to Peachland around 4pm on a Saturday in late June – which, by the way, is an odd feeling if you’ve ever woken up closer to the crack of dawn to leave for a Barbecue Saturday – for this year’s edition of the Jubilee featuring contributions from N. Sea Oyster Co., Lawrence Barbecue, Elliott Moss, and of course Jon G’s Barbecue.
Most attendees at the Jubilee started with oysters from N. Sea Oyster Co. from Hampstead which is located near Topsail Beach on the North Carolina coast. They offered both raw and the barbecued oysters that were cooked on a Kudu grill next to the tent. The oysters were a touch on the small side for my liking but the raw with a “hog wash mignonette” were nice and briney while the barbecued with a chipotle bourbon butter were sublime.
Lawrence Barbecue‘s beef fat caramel wings were probably the food highlight of the evening for me. If I am recalling the process correctly, beef fat drippings from briskets are rendered into a caramel sauce with sugar and cumin, and then that is what the wings are dipped in after they are fried. These don’t appear to be a regular menu item at their shop in Durham but if they are ever on special, grab a friend and get as many as you can. Just ridiculously tasty.
Elliot Moss and his mobile BQ smoker was actually the first sight attendees saw when walking into the Jubilee in the the lawn area behind the Jon G’s building. Moss was a last minute addition to the festivities, announced just the week leading into the festival, but he was certainly a welcome one for barbecue fans in the know. He’s made some moves in his hometown of Florence that are still to be announced publicly (but are consistent with what he told me at the Carolina BBQ Festival) and safe to say that big things are in the works. I can’t wait to hear the full scope of his plans, which we should hopefully know more about in the coming weeks.
His whole hog was served pig pickin’ style straight from the pig cooker with a pot of vinegar pepper sauce and a white slaw. And it was as sublime as you would have expected from a fresh hog cooked on site the night before to be.
Finally, Jon G’s Barbecue came through with a beef rib croissant sandwich topped with chimichurri served with a side of burnt ends and a watermelon salad. The sandwich was a super-sized version of the slider beef rib croissant sandwich I had at the first Carolina BBQ Festival and the Smoke and Grapes event as part of 2022’s Charlotte Food and Wine Festival. It’s deliciously luxurious and indulgent and a neighbor at a nearby table noted that the sandwich was “the best thing [she’s] ever eaten” which honestly isn’t too far off from the truth. The usual excellence from Garren, Kelly, and team.
Thankfully, Garren has confirmed that the third edition of the Jon G’s Jubilee is already in the works, possibly with a move in timing (especially if wife and co-owner Kelly has anything to do with it). Whenever it’s announced, for barbecue fans in North and South Carolina it’s worth looking out for and adding to your calendar.
Monk: A family vacation prevented me from attending last year’s Jon G’s Jubilation, which is part barbecue festival and part birthday celebration (the original was created to celebrate Garren’s 40th birthday). This year, my family obligations didn’t conflict with my barbecue obligations, so I made my way to Peachland around 4pm on a Saturday – which, by the way, is an odd feeling – for this year’s edition of the Jubilee featuring Lawrence Barbecue, Elliott Moss, N. Sea Oyster Co., and NoDa Brewing.
Swag and jubilee setup
Beef fat caramel wings from Lawrence Barbecue out of Durham
Beef rib croissant sandwich, burnt ends, and watermelon salad from Jon G’s Barbecue
Oysters from N. Sea Oyster Co. out of Hampstead, NC
Whole hog from Elliott Moss, now out of Florence, SC
Dessert from Brown Creek Creamery in Wadesboro and beverages from NoDa Brewing out of Charlotte
Meet pit crew member Jamie from Sam Jones BBQ’s Winterville location
After launching their barbecue program last year, Resident Culture is now offering a barbecue class with pitmaster Edmar Simoes. Classes will start on July 14 and run every second Sunday of the month from 6 a.m.-4 p.m. at Resident Culture’s South End location.
.@ResidentCulture is launching a new barbecue class that will help Charlotteans get more comfortable behind the grill this summer. Executive chef Edmar Simoes will teach participants how to cook Carolina-style barbecue and styles from around the world. https://t.co/uzR5Acmbnt
Ronald Simmons may be coming to a city near you in July
Special announcement! Join the Master Blend Gang as we hit the road on a 3 city Grilling Tour with Got to Be NC! On July 11th, 12th, and 14th cooking, demos will take place from 11:30 am til 1:00 pm at three of NC's Farmers Markets. Raleigh – July 11th Greensboro – July 12th… pic.twitter.com/8yIOLfWGEt
Lewis Barbecue‘s Charleston location has been closed since last week due to termite damage but will reopen tomorrow but temporarily shifting to outdoor dining with the full menu available from the trailer
Chef Angel Jimenez’s La Piraña Lechonera will continue this year in the South Bronx
For 23 years, chef Angel Jimenez has drawn barbecue pork devotees to the South Bronx. This summer, the party is heating up again. https://t.co/UVDcjYWqjP
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