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My 5 favorite barbecue bites in 2025 so far

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Monk: It’s been a lighter year, barbecue-wise for me but I have managed to hit several big hitters across the southeast (including four restaurants on the Texas Monthly United States of Texas Barbecue list from Tennessee, Georgia, South Carolina, and North Carolina). I’m looking at it as trying a few worthwhile places instead of a bunch of mediocre ones, and hopefully in the second half of the year I’ll get to a few more places to round out my list by the end of 2025.

In chronological order, here are the best things I have eaten from the first half of the year:

Smoked half chicken from Union Barbecue (review from 2024)

Last year, the carnitas from Union Barbecue was one of my favorite bites of the year (not to mention the brisket and the out-of-this-world Big Deborah oatmeal cream pie). On a subsequent stop in January I tried the smoked half chicken topped with white sauce, salsa macha, and cilantro for a change of pace and found it to be a nice, lighter alternative to the heavier meats.

Pork from Shotgun Willie’s (review)

Shotgun Willie’s outside Nashville did a lot of good things fairly well – brisket, sausage, Brunswick stew – but their pork shoulder dusted with pork rub was my pick of the platter.

Smoked brisket burger from Dampf Good BBQ (review)

While there was a lot to like at Dampf Good BBQ earlier this year, the smoked brisket burger took the cake over the brisket, ribs, and sausage. So much so that I forgot to take photos of it until I had taken a few bites of the delicious burger made from smoked brisket trimmings and topped with cheese, pickles, and mayo on a potato bun. It was a special on that day, but be on the look out if you are checking them out in Cary.

Beef cheek from Owens & Hull (review)

I live by a simple rule: if I see beef cheeks on the menu, I’m going to buy it. Maybe I’ve been lucky but the two places I’ve tried – Palmira Barbecue in Charleston and Owens & Hull in Smyrna – have put out some seriously tasty renditions that are must orders at their respective restaurants.

Chopped pork with crispy skins from City Limits Barbeque (review)

Robbie Robinson mixes in pork belly with his whole pork shoulders and then chops in some crispy skin to finish it off. It’s going to take a lot to knock this sandwich from the West Columbia restaurant off its perch as my favorite bite of barbecue in 2025. Honorable mentions to the barbecue hash and the sweet jalapeno pimento cheese.

City Limits Barbeque has my favorite bite of the year

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Name: City Limits Barbeque
Date: 6/14/25
Address: 1119 Methodist Park Rd, West Columbia, SC 29170
Order: Quarter pound brisket, half pound chopped pork, chopped pork sandwich with crispy skins,1 mild sausage link, hash and rice, sweet beans, collards, shells and cheese, jalappeno pimento cheese (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Monk: Have you been to a James Beard-nominated barbecue joint? There are only but a few of those around, so chances are you might not have. How about one that’s been nominated as a semifinalist twice in two years, believed to be the only joint to have that distinction? Well if you’ve been to City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia, SC, you can say that you have. It may also hold the distinction to be perhaps the only James Beard nominee to display their nomination next to a loaf of Wonder Bread:

My visit to City Limits had been years in planning before I finally made the trip. I had previously met owner and pitmaster Robbie Robinson through Garren Kirkman of Jon G’s but had only tried his food once before: his barbecue hash over Carolina Gold rice at last year’s Carolina Barbecue Festival in Charlotte. It was one of my favorite bites of the festival and on this day was a close second to my favorite bite of the day and possibly the year.

Speaking of which, the chopped pork sandwich with crispy skins mixed in holds that particular distinction. Robinson smokes pork shoulders as well as pork bellies over direct heat with just a salt rub and chops them together. You can choose whether to have the skins mixed in or not, but I beg you to please get the crispy skins mixed in. It’s then placed upon a nice hefty bun that can withstand the generous portion and you won’t be disappointed. I certainly wasn’t.

In addition to being a James Beard nominee, City Limits also has the distinction of being one of the top 50 Texas barbecue joints outside of the state of Texas according to Texas Monthly. I tried a slice of the fatty brisket and while Robinson wasn’t thrilled with the look of the slice I got when I spoke with him at the register, it was more than solid. Being a Texas-style joint, there were a couple of house made sausages on the menu, and I went with the mild hot link which was above average like the brisket. A few days later, I put these two leftovers together into a fold over on a piece of white bread with a dill pickle and had a great snack.

All of the sides at City Limits are scratch made, and there wasn’t a miss in any of the ones I selected: sweet (pinto) beans, shells and cheese, and collards which were Mrs. Monk-approved. I can’t forget to mention the jalapeno pimento cheese, which we saved to eat a few days later during our week at the beach.

Robinson likes to say that it’s better than the pimento cheese at the Masters, and after visiting myself earlier in the year for the first time I can’t disagree. My only complaint was that I didn’t buy a bigger tub of it; it’s a must get.

Unfortunately, Robbie and team (all of which were able to attend the awards ceremony in Chicago with him in person) did not take home the award for Best Chef: Southeast last Monday; instead it went to Jake Howell of Peninsula in Nashville. However in this case it’s not cliche to say that it’s an honor just to be nominated; particularly when its twice in two years.

If you get there during or just prior to the lunch rush at City Limits Barbeque, be prepared for roughly a two hour wait; that was our experience getting there at 10:30am Saturday before an 11am open. Another potential approach would be to wait until 2 or 3pm once the rush has died down. You may risk some items being sold out, but this past weekend I saw someone was still able to nab a beef rib so you never know.

In any case, don’t be a dummy like me and delay your visit to City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 4 hogs
Pork – 5 hogs
Brisket – 4 hogs
Sausage – 4 hogs
Barbecue Hash – 5 hogs
Sides – 5 hogs
Overall – 5 hogs

Back in 2013, Rodney Scott and Sean Brock Threw an Epic Lowcountry Barbecue

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Monk: From the Sean Brock-hosted season of “The Mind of a Chef” that aired in 2013 (with narration from the late Anthony Bourdain), this has always been one of my favorite episodes from that series. The premise is simple enough: Sean Brock is throwing a party on Wadmalaw Island in South Carolina and invites his chef friends to help. In watching the below video, I think it’s fairly evident that I would’ve given anything to have been invited to this party back in 2013 when it was filmed.

First, for the whole hog he gives a little bit of background on the Ossabaw heritage breed of pig that he is going to roast. Originally brought to Ossabaw Island in Georgia in the 1500’s, they are descendants of Iberian pigs in Spain. A local farmer named Celeste Albers is helping to bring them back from the edge of extinction, and you get a little bit of her backstory.

Then, with the help of friend Rodney Scott, Brock preps the pig for smoking, and we get a little bit of the well-known backstory of Rodney. The smoking rig that day was a bit of a redneck-engineered La Caja China roasting box.

Then, Brock brings in James Beard Award-winning Chef Steven Satterfield of Atlanta to make Savannah red rice, a dish that is over 300 years old and which Satterfield calls the “paella of the southeast of the low country.”

Before the party can start, a rainstorm blows through but Brock and Scott are not deterred. They don a raincoat and flip the pig so it can be mopped with Scott’s signature sauce.

Next, Charleston chef Mike Lata comes in to cook frogmore stew, a staple of the low country. And before you know it, the party guests have arrived in their rain gear and are ready for the party to start.

The spread is an embarrassment of riches with all of the amazing food including the Rodney Scott whole hog and despite the weather conditions, looks like a good time was had by all.

Description: Chef Sean Brock invites friends to a BBQ outside of Charleston, South Carolina. Pitmaster Rodney Scott roasts a whole hog, Chef Steven Satterfield makes Savannah Red Rice, and Chef Mike Lata prepares Frogmore Stew. [Originally aired 2013]

Linkdown: The Belated April Edition

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Photo taken by Joshua Boucher jboucher@thestate.com

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Earlier this month, the James Beard Award finalists were announced. However, unlike in year’s past, the barbecue nominees were limited to just a couple of chefs in two separate categories – Best Chef: California and Best Chef: Southeast. Curiously, no Texas pitmasters received finalist nominations after Fasicka and Patrick Hicks at Smoke’N Ash BBQ in Arlington and Evan LeRoy of LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue in Austin were named semifinalists in January.

For the second year in a row, Robbie Robinson of City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia was nominated for Best Chef: Southeast. This is a major achievement and when he was named semifinalist in January it is believed that he is only the second barbecue pitmaster to be nominated for the same Chef category more than once. Surely, he is in even more limited company when it comes to finalist nominations. Additionally in Best Chef: California, Daniel Castillo of Heritage Barbecue in San Juan Capistrano was the other barbecue pitmaster nominated.

Robinson has received some well deserved local press in recent weeks:


The final winners in the restaurant and chef Awards categories will be celebrated on Monday, June 16, during a gala ceremony at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. Good luck to all the finalists.

Native News

This Saturday, the BBQ Fest on the Neuse in Kinston is attempting to set a Guinness World Record for most barbecue sandwiches sold in 8 hours

Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue in Waynesville is having their grand opening celebration on May 31st featuring a whole hog pig pickin’ and live music

A second Lawrence Barbecue in Cary and a steak restaurant from Christopher Prieto in Durham are two of the most anticipated restaurants opening this year in the Carolinas this spring

Non-Native News

ICYMI, Elliott’s Barbecue opened in Florence earlier this month

Carolina Bar-B-Que in New Ellenton, SC is under new ownership and not only surviving, but thriving

Heirloom Market BBQ is still an essential restaurant in Atlanta

Some fire merch from Peg Leg Porker

Also ICYMI:

So you’ve made it to the Masters; should you get the barbecue sandwich?