Linkdown: 7/20/22

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Monk: A fairly wide-ranging state of NC barbecue from News & Observer writer Drew Jackson, who has been very ably covering the barbecue scene in and around Raleigh for the past few years.

Despite the invasive species of brisket coming into the state, there are still a number of places clinging to the NC barbecue tradition, be that eastern whole hog or Lexington-style shoulders (though this story focuses on places east of Durham. Wyatt Dickson, Matt Register, Ronald House (night pitmaster at B’s Barbecue), and Ryan Mitchell are all quoted in the story but of course Sam Jones has the money quote:

“The hard lines that used to exist, that barbecue was either this or it’s not barbecue — that’s over. It used to be, for people in North Carolina, it was either whole hog, or it ain’t (expletive). For 10 million Texans, it’s brisket. As times go on and we’re so much more transient as a society, those lines are blurred.”

Sam Jones

Read more at the link:

Native News

Lewis Donald is no longer involved with Dish and will be focusing his efforts on Sweet Lew’s BBQ and the Carolina Barbecue Festival going forward

Axios Raleigh releases their Triangle barbecue list

Barbecue Center in Lexington is closing for a week later this month for some hard earned rest and relaxation, so plan accordingly

Hillsborough’s Hog Day festival is the oldest barbecue festival in Orange County and this year will officially be part of the Whole Hog Barbecue State Championship

Jon G’s makes the Yelp Charlotte Top 25 Places to Eat along with…JD’s Smokehouse in Rutherford College near Morganton?

A behind-the-scenes follow-up to Jeremy Markovich’s story on B’s Barbecue in Our State Magazine from 2016

Non-Native News

A couple of recent stories where Adrian Miller was interviewed:

Little Pigs BBQ is on this Eater essential restaurants list for Myrtle Beach

Feges BBQ hosted Premier League champions (ugh) Man City on their pre-season US tour

Barbecue sauce beer? Barbecue sauce beer.

Smithfield’s Chicken ‘N Bar-B-Q – Charlotte, NC

Name: Smithfield’s Chicken ‘N Bar-B-Q
Date: 7/9/22
Location: 5121 Trojan Drive, Charlotte, North Carolina 28278
Order: Bar-B-Q platter with hush puppies, cole slaw, and potato salad (link to menu)
Pricing: $

Monk: Living in Raleigh during my college years at NC State, whenever we headed east on I-40 towards the coast, we tended to hit up the Smithfield’s Chicken ‘N Bar-B-Q in Garner on the way out or back home. However, I moved to Charlotte in early 2005 so the last time I had actually gone to any Smithfield’s was likely in fall 2004; it had been quite some time. Smithfield’s (not related to Smithfield Foods, the Chinese-owned pork producer and food-processing company out of Virginia) has been around for 40 years and since those days in the early 2000’s it has grown to 40 franchise stores and has expanded slightly west into North Carolina’s Piedmont. And I do mean slightly – their sole location in southwest Charlotte near the outlet malls is their farthest store west by a good bit with their nearest Piedmont location in Greensboro or Rockingham.

I recently visited that location headed west towards the mountains on my way out of town. While I was tempted by the titular fried chicken, I went with a bar-b-q platter and kept it simple with their standard order: hush puppies, cole slaw, and potato salad.

And you know what? The barbecue, while surely mass-produced on a huge scale, did the trick. Sure, it doesn’t have a ton of smoke, but it tasted fresh and was chopped nicely. Adding the vinegar sauce and/or Texas Pete enhances it but isn’t necessary.

The hush puppies were some of the better fast casual hush puppies, and I felt bad tossing some in the trash after I filled up (though I did briefly consider bringing them in the car with me, though that would have meant throwing them away an hour down the road). While I didn’t regret going with potato salad over French fries, after a few bites I had my fill.

In a pinch, stopping at one of many Smithfield’s Chicken ‘N Bar-B-Q across the state will certainly do, and is probably your best bet for chain barbecue ahead of Cook Out or Jim ‘N Nick’s. Oddly, I probably received the most feedback of any post on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter so people seem to feel strongly about them (good or bad) for whatever reason. Next time though, I’ll probably go for a fried chicken thigh in addition to the barbecue.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 3 hogs
Pork – 3 hogs
Sides – 3 hogs
Overall – 3 hogs

Friday Find: WRAL Out & About Checks Out Lawrence Barbecue

Monk: WRAL’s Out and About visits Lawrence Barbecue in Research Triangle Park, where Chef Jake wood and team serve barbecue from all different regions plus fresh oysters from the NC coast and “reimagined” barbecue sides. They recently celebrated their one year anniversary of opening, and I hope to check out next time I’m in the area

Description: Located in Boxyard RTP (Research Triangle Park, North Carolina) Lawernce BBQ brings the family reunion to your table.

McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon – Charlotte, NC

Name: McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon
Date: 7/5/22
Location: 4630 Old Pineville Road, Charlotte, NC 28217
Order: BBQ pork sandwich with fried squash and double-grilled smokehouse wings (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Monk: McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon is a Charlotte joint that I tend to forget or overlook since my first and thus far only visit in 2013. On that visit, perhaps I judged it too harshly which may have tended to be the M.O. in the early days of this blog when expectations were sky high and readership was quite low. I have slowly started to revisit Charlotte joints in recent years, or at least the ones that haven’t closed, so McKoy’s was next up on the list.

Just like on that first visit, I was greeted by the smell of wood smoke in the air as I exited the car and walked into the restaurant. The interior really embraces the “saloon” aspect of the name, and there are plenty of TV’s with sports on. McKoy’s has been around since 2006 and while I don’t want to speak too prematurely, it appears they have hung on beyond the pandemic, perhaps just barely.

For my appetizer, I decided to try their smokehouse wings, opting for barbalo and upgraded to their “double grilled” to get them nice and crispy. While they do utilize a “full roid” wing (I mean, these drumettes were huge), they were nicely cooked and quite tasty. Would order again.

McKoy’s pork has a mild smokiness to it – partially due to the use of the milder pecan wood as well as utilizing a gas-assisted smoker. The pork barbecue sandwich comes on a butter-grilled bun and that mildly smokey pork is topped with a mayo-based slaw. Add some dashes of Texas Pete and it makes for a very good sammie. While I was trying not to overeat, I still managed to finish off the whole thing.

Coming off the back end of a long July 4th weekend, I tried to go a little healthier for my side but fried squash was as close as I got. I had never seen it on a barbecue menu before, but I thought it worked really well and would order again. That makes three for three if you’re keeping track at home.

I still wouldn’t include McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon in the top tier of Charlotte barbecue but it is much better than I previously gave them credit for. I might go back and try the Living the Dream (LTD) platter some day to try their ribs, pot roast, and chicken, and it’ll be sooner than the nine years between my first and second visit.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 2.5 Hogs
Pork – 3 Hogs
Sides – 3.5 Hogs
Overall – 3 Hogs