Best Barbecue in the Charlotte Area: Final Four

In the first round, Bobbee O’s beating Queen City Q was a travesty. Midwood, Red Bridges, and Spoon’s all stayed in the mix. And a bowling alley got past a traditional barbecue restaurant.

In the Elite 8, Bobbee O’s managed to somehow advance again in a tournament concerned with good barbecue. The bowling alley finally lost, Bridges eked past Midwood in an apparent squeaker (would have liked to see those two not in a match up this early), and Spoon’s topped Sauceman’s in a battle for South Charlotte. Now it’s down to the final four.

Reader voting has ended and the rest will be decided by a panel of judges, with the semifinalists and winner announced next week.

-Monk

Best Barbecue in the Charlotte Area: Final Four

Vote Now: Best Barbecue in the Charlotte area?

For the first time in the Observer Tournament of Food’s six-year history, we’ve seeded the bracket completely randomly.

Why? Because we’re doing barbecue, and when you’re talking ’cue, all logical divisions – and all bets – are off.

“Barbecue” – as one reader chided me, it’s “Yankee” to specify pulled pork – brings out people’s passionate preferences more than any other single foodstuff I’ve written about. More than fried chicken, more than mac ’n cheese, more than Mom’s apple pie. That’s due to two powerful points, I’ve come to believe:

1. What you grew up with matters. If you got used to crushed-red-pepper-flecked-vinegar sauce on whole-hog ’cue, that’s the only thing that feels true. If you grew up with a sweeter red sauce on coarse-chopped shoulder meat, that’s what’s right, and everyone and everything else is wrong. Vehemently wrong. Peruse my blog posts about ’cue and you find one place’s product called ambrosial and slop by consecutive commenters. “I wouldn’t feed that trash to feral hogs” is one of my favorite slams, while “the only ’cue in Charlotte worth discussing” has been said (or written) to me about an astonishing number of very different restaurants.

2. The fact that barbecue pit-cooked over wood is a dwindling method matters. Traditionalists insist this is the only way to do it, and that’s one reason Michelle Obama was so roundly scoffed at when she said Charlotte had great barbecue. (Some folks mistakenly think it’s illegal now to cook over only wood in these parts; it’s not illegal but safety restrictions make it a more expensive method than most are willing to pursue. And even when they are, the price of wood and labor and maintenance are noteworthy.)

The local Charlotte paper is doing a barbecue bracket, and a few Barbecue Bros faves are in the running. Read about all 16 contestants here and vote now!
-Monk

Vote Now: Best Barbecue in the Charlotte area?

Wink’s King of Barbeque – Salisbury, NC

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Name: Wink’s King of Barbeque
Date: 3/2/2013
Location: 509 Faith Rd, Salisbury, NC 28146
Order: Chopped barbecue tray (with coleslaw, hush puppies, and barbecue bread), Diet Cheerwine
Bill: ~$9

This past Saturday, I met my parents in Salisbury to trade cars for a week or two (long story short my father has this genius mechanic to which he wanted to take my car in for a tune-up), so I thought it would be a good excuse to try out a barbecue joint that was both on the NC Historic Barbecue Trail and in the city that claims to be the original birthplace of Piedmont or Lexington-style barbecue. Because of it’s proximity just a half mile off the highway, Wink’s was the place for us.

Because it is included the NC Barbecue Trail, it should be no surprise that Wink’s does indeed cook their barbecue low and slow over a stick burner and I confirmed that by the glorious wood pile and burner out back. Wink’s not only does barbecue but also has seafood, breakfast, and regional items such as livermush or chuckwagon (a favorite of my wife’s) on their menu. In that respect, they are more akin to a local diner. However, inside it definitely looks the part of a barbecue restaurant with light colored wood paneled walls adorned with old Cheerwine and Sundrop signs (two more wonderful Salisbury creations).

I ordered the small chopped barbecue tray (sliced was also an option, but screw that noise), which came with white slaw (boo), hush puppies, and a side of “barbeque bread.” As per yoosh, the food came out shortly after our order. The first thing I tried was the spherical hush puppies and they were pretty much perfect. Nice and fluffy, not too dense, with a nice sweetness to them. Some of the best I’ve had in quite a while as a matter of fact. The barbeque bread was essentially Texas toast and once I tried a half piece of it I decided I didn’t need any more.

As I stated above, the coleslaw was mayonnaise-based and while I am not necessarily against it *COUGHSPEEDYCOUGH* it was a little disappointing considering Salisbury’s proximity to Lexington. This is atypical of the region, and it is curious that Wink’s serves it as opposed to red slaw.

The chopped pork was tender, had nice pieces of bark mixed in, and had good smokiness. The sauce was a bit sweeter than I’d have preferred (or have had from a Piedmont-style barbecue spot) but for the most part I had no real complaints. My parents, also big fans of Lexington #1, liked their food but my dad happened upon a chunk of unchewable gristle in his sandwich. He simply removed it and trucked along.

So would I eat at Wink’s again? Well, if I have ever left Charlotte, am ever driving north on 85, and our upcoming firstborn absolutely cannot make it another 15-20 minutes to get to Lexington #1, sure. But that scenario just seems unlikely to me, and chances are I would just go ahead and make drive into Lexington in this hypothetical scenario. Still, it’s good to know that Wink’s is still doing their old school thing and is conveniently located off the highway if I am ever in a pinch.

-Monk

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 3 hogs
Pork – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 4 hogs
Overall – 3.5 hogs

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Wink's King Barbeque & Seafood on Urbanspoon

Recap: The First Barbecue Bros Super Bowl Super Smoke-Off

Monk: In Super Bowl parties past, the electric smoker that Speedy owns and is now permanently kept at my upstairs patio has served us quite well. We’ve smoked ribs and/or wings for the past couple of years, and our guests have chimed in how much they have enjoyed them. This year, we decided to step things up a bit and do both pork butts and wings. However, the kicker this year was that it would be a SUPER BOWL SUPER SMOKE OFF between the two of us – Speedy and his electric smoker versus me and my Weber charcoal grill. Winner gets Barbecue Bros ultimate bragging rights and buys the other dinner at the next barbecue restaurant. So yea, pretty high stakes.

Speedy: We decided we’d have everyone at the party vote on their favorite wings/pork. To avoid any bias, the voters wouldn’t know which of us prepared which meat. We prepped our meats at Monk’s house the night before. For my rub (MADE FROM SCRATCH – WHAT!), I used a paprika base and added equal parts sugar, brown sugar, ground cumin, chili powder, and a black/red pepper mixture. I then added a bit of cayenne pepper for a little heat. For my wings, I used a spicy teriyaki marinade (not made from scratch) with the idea that I would sprinkle on some of the red/black pepper mixture (note: this is made by McCormick’s at is called Hot Shot and I use it on almost everything) the next day before cooking.

Monk: For my pork butt, I started with a rub I bought at a farmer’s market in Charlotte about 5 years ago and has served me well in past barbecues. I stirred in some brown sugar, ground mustard, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Similar to Speedy, I rubbed the pork butt the night before and kept it wrapped in the fridge overnight. With the wings, I opted to go for a dry rub as opposed to Speedy’s marinade. Not having a lot of experience with wings, I simply searched for and found a rub on the internet and it called for black pepper, onion powder, chili powder, garlic powder and seasoned salt. After mixing the rub, I added it to a Ziploc bag with the wings, spread it as evenly as I could and also set it in the fridge overnight.

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Speedy: I arrived back at Monk’s early the next day with Bojangles biscuits in hand for breakfast. 

Monk: Talk about clutch!

Speedy: I wanted to show my sportsmanship so Monk wouldn’t take the defeat so hard. Monk had graciously already taken the pork butts out of the fridge, so I went upstairs and turned the smoker on to 250. I want to point out here that of course I’d prefer to have/use a charcoal or wood burner, but the electric smoker actually does a decent job and is super convenient. However, once I move to a place with a yard, a ceramic charcoal smoker will be among my first purchases. Anyway, I used cherry and white oak wood chips to create my smoke and after heating up, my pork was ready to cook.

Monk: The tricky part for me was that while I had used my charcoal grill plenty of times, I had never set it up it as an indirect cooker for smoking. Thankfully, a quick Google search brought me upon this great Instructables site that detailed step-by-step (with pictures) how to set it up and cook. This was my bible for the day. Unfortunately, getting the charcoal briquettes lighted was a bit of an adventure and while I had bought a charcoal chimney, I didn’t have any newspaper to get the fire started (noted for next time). With Speedy’s help, we ghetto-rigged a fire and got the coals lit. Once I had that, I added apple wood chips to get the smoke going. Alright, game on (albeit a good 30 minutes after Speedy flipped the switch on his cooker).

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Speedy: On the electric smoker, the cook is pretty easy. It’s really just a matter of adding wood chips every hour or so to keep the smoke going. Otherwise, I try to keep the door closed so as to not let out any heat. 

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Monk: Whereas the hard part for me throughout the day was regulating the temperature of the Weber grill. The site I mentioned above said to simply adjust the vent at the top to regulate the temperate (closing to cool, opening to heat), but this was a little hit or miss for me and the temperature swing between 225 and 315 (I was aiming for around 250). I ended up playing with the bottom vents (which I hadn’t expected to touch at all) and adding some coals and that helped, though the temperature wasn’t as stable as I would have preferred. However, outside of adding wood chips and checking the temp on an hourly basis, I was mostly on cruise control. Speedy and I cracked our first beers of the day (Deviant Dale’s in a can) at 10:48. God I love smoking meat.

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Speedy: About three hours in, it came time to baste the butt. I used apple juice with a bit of added sugar, as I wanted it to caramelize on the meat a bit in order to get some nice outside brown. I used a turkey baster to apply it. Additionally, with about 2.5 hours to go on the cook, it came time to put in the wings. Both Monk and I used the electric smoker for the wings. They also don’t require much attention – it’s really just a matter of letting them cook for a couple hours.

Monk: For my mop sauce, I just simply applied apple juice with a basting brush on the hour for the final 3 hours of the cook. Nothing fancy, but I just wanted to keep the meat from drying out while complementing the smoke from the apple wood chips and also getting a nice bark on the outside. After about an hour-and-a-half, I took the wings out of the smoker and dredged them in a mixture of honey, barbecue sauce, and apple juice from this recipe. I was going for the sweet-with-heat approach, and that recipe seemed to be exactly what I was looking for. I then put the wings back in the electric smoker for the final 30 minutes.

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Speedy: With about an hour to go in the cook, it came time to make the dip. My dip recipe is (I think) the actual Lexington #1 dip recipe, which consists of water, apple cider vinegar, ketchup, sugar, salt, black pepper, crushed red pepper, and a pinch of cayenne. As Lexington BBQ is the best on Earth, I thought this dip would cruise me to an easy victory. Unfortunately, Monk had similar ideas.

Monk: For my dip, I just simply made the Piedmont-Lexington style dip found on the NC Barbecue Society website, which ended up being more or less the same recipe as Speedy. Clearly, this wouldn’t be a distinguishing factor in our barbecue.

Speedy: My pork was ready to come off the smoker a little sooner than Monk’s. So I took it downstairs in a aluminum bin and started chopping. First, I cut out any pieces of fat that didn’t render into the meat. Initially, I was going to chop, but since I didn’t have a proper chopping board, I really ended up pulling the meat. I was really happy with the tenderness and flavor of my pork. Again, using the turkey baster, I basted on my still piping hot dip, though I’m not sure I used enough in the end. The wings were simply brought down and placed on a tray to serve.

Monk: I was definitely feeling the heat with Speedy already being done and guests starting to arrive. This must be exactly what the cooks experience on BBQ Pitmasters as the clock runs down. I chopped and shredded the pork in an aluminum bin (although not as finely as I would have liked), added in the dip and finally, we were ready to serve to our guests and get the voting going. One thing that I would have done differently is that I took the dip off the burner and let it cool so when I added it to the barbecue it cooled the meat off more than I would have liked. Next time, I will keep it on a low simmer right up until I add it to the pork.

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Speedy: We each named our meats using Super Bowl themed names and had everyone pick their favorite of both wings and pork by placing cards into a ballot box.

Monk: In a tight vote, I ended up winning both wings and barbecue by a count of 6-4. I tasted Speedy’s barbecue and it was very good, as all of our pork butts had been in the past on the electric smoker. I probably could have used maybe another hour for the meat to increase the tenderness, but as was it was cooked through and still tender. And I liked his wings, though I can see how maybe they were a little too spicy for some folks. In any case, I was very fortunate to win against damn fine meat.

Speedy: I also tasted Monk’s food and have to say it was quite good. I knew my wings were in trouble once I tasted his, but I thought my pork was still going to win. I had a little more time on the cooker and (I thought) was a bit more tender, but I suppose people at the party did not agree. People have asked me – Speedy, are you disappointed? Of course. Speedy, are you bitter? Extremely. Speedy, do you think you should have allowed amateurs to judge the contest? No. Speedy, do you think you should have allowed Monk’s wife to tally the votes? Definitely no. Speedy, will you be able to bring yourself to cook again? Yes – and it will be better than ever.

Congratulations, Monk, on winning the first (but not last) Barbecue Bros smoke-off.