Charleston

Linkdown: 7/12/23 – The Hush Puppy Queen Edition

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Monk: Cheerwine has launched their “Uniquely Southern Summer Contest” and are giving Barbecue Bros readers – some of the smartest barbecue connoisseurs around – an edge when it comes to the contest. Simply enter “BBQBROS” in the “Bonus Code” box for a bonus entry when entering the contest at the link here.

Next week’s prize is The Carolina ‘Que Collection, “an ultimate culinary adventure featuring gift cards to over a dozen barbecue restaurants across North and South Carolina. Savor the mouthwatering flavors and unique regional styles that make Carolina barbecue legendary, and see why Cheerwine and BBQ are known as the ‘Southern Handshake.'”

The grand prize of the contest is a three-day, two-night stay at the historic Brown Mountain Beach Resort, “located in the breathtaking Wilson Creek Gorge of Lenoir, North Carolina, promises an unforgettable getaway where history and natural beauty intertwine. The stay will include a Cheerwine-themed riverfront yurt and plenty of swag from the South’s favorite soda. The winner will also enjoy paddleboard and kayak excursions along Wilson Creek and more.”

The contest ends on July 30 so be sure to enter today (and don’t forget to use the code “BBQBROS”).

More info on the restaurants included in the gift card pack here:

Native News

Congrats to Grady’s BBQ on 37 years open!

B’s Barbecue is featured in this month’s Garden & Gun Magazine

Some recent interviews with Ed and Ryan Mitchell as part of their press tour on their latest cookbook: WBUR in Boston and WUNC in Chapel Hill

Mike D’s BBQ Smokehouse and Retail opens this weekend in East Durham

https://www.wral.com/story/foodie-news-big-bbq-news-in-durham/20944299/

Red Bridge’s “hush puppy queen” DeDe recently celebrated her 40th anniversary of hiring at the barbecue institution

Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge has new Richardson hats in stock

Non-Native News

Looks like City Limits Q is off to a good start at their new, in-progress brick and mortar in west Columbia

From last month, CNN delves into barbecue hash

Aaron Franklin recently sat down with the Biscuits & Jam podcast

John Tanner rejoices that downtown DC is getting a legit barbecue restaurant in 2fifty Texas BBQ

Holy Smokes tickets are now on sale! The barbecue celebration returns to Waterfront Park in North Charleston in November.

Rodney Scott’s BBQ Maintains its Spot in the Upper Tier of Charleston BBQ

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Name: Rodney Scott’s BBQ
Date: 6/18/23
Address: 1011 King St, Charleston, SC 29403
Order: Two meat combo platter with whole hog and ribs with hush puppies and coleslaw, wings (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Monk: In my first and only visit to Rodney Scott’s BBQ 6 years ago, while I loved the whole hog I noted in that review that I should have tried the ribs. Speedy’s review the following year further reinforced that notion, although he wasn’t effusive in his praise. Knowing that I was going to be able to force Mrs. Monk into going to Rodney Scott’s while in Charleston this past Father’s Day weekend, I was not going to throw away my shot.

Let’s start our review with those ribs, shall we. In the two meat combo platter I got a generous serving of 5 bones and boy let me tell you they were big, meaty spares. Each bone was perfectly cooked, allowing for bite marks without the meat falling completely off the bone. And while there was a slight glaze, these bones weren’t oversauced and had great flavor. I was glad I ordered them but reader, I must admit that I could only finish three of the five.

The whole hog was as good as I remembered and with the barbecue of the Hemingway Scott’s a distant memory, I was able to judge it on its own merits. Great texture and while I accidentally poured a little too much Rodney’s sauce, a slightly spicy vinegar pepper sauce, onto my tray the pork soaked it right up while not getting overwhelmed.

Mrs. Monk, our friend Mo, and I shared the half dozen wings and all noted aloud how good they were. They were smoked before being freshly fried right before they were delivered to our table. Which led to crispy wings with a nice flavor – you might say sweet with a little heat – that paired nicely with the Alabama white dipping sauce.

The hush puppies were light and crispy, clearly also having just been freshly fried just prior to being served to us. The mayo slaw was standard.

On this Charleston Saturday in June, we sat outside at a picnic table painted in the signature blue of Rodney Scott’s and found it to be quite pleasant in the shade. So much so that we lingered long after finishing our food, generally unaffected by any Charleston swampiness in the air. The barbecue met all expectations and if you’re looking to get something besides beef at a barbecue joint in Charleston, Rodney Scott’s BBQ is your best bet.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 3.5 hogs
Pulled Pork – 4.5 hogs
Ribs – 4.5 hogs
Wings – 4 hogs
Sides – 4.5 hogs
Overall – 4.5 hogs

How Does a Recent Trip to Swig & Swine Stack Up to Prior Visits?

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Name: Swig & Swine
Date: 4/15/23
Address: 1217 Savannah Hwy, Charleston, SC 29407
Order: Pulled pork barbecue sandwich with hash and rice (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Monk: Swig & Swine has been hit or miss for the Barbecue Bros in the past. Speedy visited this location almost exactly 9 years prior to my most recent visit and found it to be slightly above average (and presumably not just because Speedy’s phone at the time took mediocre photos).

I later checked out the Summerville location 3 years later and liked it quite a bit more. That location at the time had enough space to smoke whole hogs while also putting out some pretty credible brisket as well. Now, whole hog appears to be a Thursday only special (at least at this location) while the brisket continues to be on the regular menu.

Since then, pitmaster Anthony DiBernardo has since become sole owner of Swig & Swine, buying out his initial partners Queen Street Hospitality Group in 2019 while also co-founding the fantastic Holy Smokes barbecue festival, which I went to last year and hope to be back at again in the near future

Back to the West Ashley location, which I understand to be the first of the now three-strong chain. Coming off the Rancho Lewis experience the prior night, I wasn’t exactly in a particularly hungry state even after a short hike at the Morris Island lighthouse at Folly Beach. I opted for a simple pulled pork sandwich (yes, yes I know but that’s how its listed on the menu) with a side of hash and rice.

Comparing this with Melvin’s BBQ a few days prior, I like the pork sandwich less and the hash and rice more. The pork was large portion but a bit on the bland side even with some nice chunks of barked chopped in. Unfortunately it seemed as if it absolutely had to have one of the sauces from the table poured on. The vinegar sauce certainly helped the cause.

The hash and rice was thicker than what I had at the James Island Melvin’s with more flavor. This is actually the opposite of what John Tanner experienced on his visit so take from that what you will. For me, it was my favorite part of the meal

Had I read Speedy’s review before hand, I would have gotten some smoked wings and opted for the sausage sandwich special for that day. Whoops, shame on me.

Swig & Swine seems to do a brisk catering and bulk pick-up business on the weekend as from our view on the patio we saw several cars back in, open their tailgates, and pick up large aluminum pans of barbecue and sides. I like to imagine that they were going to a fun outdoor party. On that day, they would have enjoyed a beautiful spring low country day and some above-average-but-not-quite-transcendent barbecue.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 3.5 hogs
Pork – 3 hogs
Hash and Rice – 3.5 hogs
Overall – 3 hogs

Order the Mesquite-Smoked Beef Back Ribs at Rancho Lewis

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Name: Rancho Lewis
Date: 4/14/23
Address: 1503 King St, Charleston, SC 29403
Order: Beef Back Ribs “Half The Cow!” with cowboy slaw, charro beans, and a green chile baked potato (link to menu)
Pricing: $$$

Monk: John Lewis established his barbecue restaurant Lewis Barbecue in 2016 after having made the move as the well-regarded pitmaster at La Barbecue in Austin. As the story goes, John had received rapturous feedback from his food festival stops in Charleston over the years and finally made the leap east in 2015. Since opening his first restaurant in 2016, he has opened a second Lewis Barbecue location in Greenville in August 2022. This capped off a busy year that started with the opening of his upscale Tex-Mex Rancho Lewis in Charleston in April 2022. I think it’s fair to say that it’s worked out well for Lewis in the Holy City.

Rancho Lewis didn’t start out of nothing, however. What was then known as Juan Luis occupied a food stall in the Workshop food hall at the location where Rancho Lewis sits today. While I never made it to Workshop, I did force my family to make a quick detour a few years back to the Juan Luis food trailer that sat outside Lewis Barbecue and served some amazing breakfast tacos.

As soon as I opened the menu, I knew there was one item on the menu that was a must order as soon as I saw it. Behold: the beef back ribs, “half the cow!”

As stated on the menu, this item is a “whole full rack, slow cooked overnight in our mesquite pit.” According to our waitress that night, the $48.95 order comes with somewhere between 6-12 ribs. Thankfully I got on the lower end of that spectrum with 7 since I was the main eater of the dish at our table and was going to be at a music festival for the next two days without access to an over to reheat. The ribs themselves were fantastically tender, more so than my previous experience with beef back ribs. Perfectly smoked, the mesquite wood did not overpower the meat or the tangy sauce. I would for sure order these again with a large group next. The sides themselves were worth sharing as well.

Its pretty well established that green chiles are part of the larger pet project of John Lewis spreading the cuisine from his West Texas upbringing in El Paso. For the past 5 falls he’s even hosted an annual Hatch Chile Festival, with the 6th planned for sometime in October 2023. To that end, I was told by our waitress not to sleep on the green chile baked potato, and I can report back that she did not steer me wrong.

The other sides of cowboy slaw and charro beans were also executed to a high level, and I do have to mention their version of the paloma called “So Far So Bueno” which is a “big clay bowl filled with tequila, citrus juices, sparkling grapefruit.” Not the easiest to drink without spilling, but it added some fun to the meal. And while Rancho Lewis (and its pricing) certainly reflects an upscale Tex-Mex restaurant, we did get to enjoy the half-priced happy hour drink specials available on the patio shared with Edmund’s Oast before being seated.

Rancho Lewis takes the Juan Luis concept to another level and while its certainly more Tex-Mex than Texas barbecue, I can’t recommend it more highly. If you’ve got a Tex-Mex fan in your life (as I do with Mrs. Monk), you owe it to check out a different kind of cuisine at Rancho Lewis in Charleston.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 4 hogs
Beef Back Ribs – 4.5 hogs
Sides – 4.5 hogs
Overall – 4.5 hogs