brisket

Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint – Nolensville, TN

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Name: Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint
Date: 9/28/12
Location: 7238 Nolensville Road, Nolensville, TN
Order: ½ rack of ribs – dry with fries and cornbread, 2 pulled pork sliders, 1 brisket slider (link to menu)
Bill: $12 (ribs/sides), $5 (3 sliders)

Speedy: From September 2009 – March 2010, I spent nearly every week flying to Nashville for work. I had been to the city once before, but only for a wedding, so I didn’t get to explore the city much. I was pleasantly surprised when it became my pseudo-home for six months, as it’s a great city with a lot more going for it than the honky tonks (which themselves are pretty darn fun under the right circumstances). What I didn’t find in the city, however, was good barbecue. Given the city’s proximity to Memphis (where I had been once previously and sampled some fantastic ribs at Rendezvous), I was shocked that I couldn’t seem to find some decent ‘cue anywhere. I tried all the downtown spots, and a couple outside of downtown, but to no avail. During that time, I never made it to (or even heard of) Martin’s.

My friend and host for the weekend, Drew, wanted to get my opinion on Martin’s, a place he had been a few times and enjoyed. Martin’s is not convenient to downtown Nashville – it actually resides about 20 minutes away in Nolensville – so it was a bit of a hike to get there. We went at lunch time on Friday, and when we arrived, there wasn’t much of a crowd. The restaurant has a great ambiance, as it has wood counters and tables, a screened-in porch, and has a bit of an old school feel. However, it also has several nice TVs with sports playing and a bar with 5-6 beers on tap. AKA the best of both worlds.

Monk: Some people say that it’s not a barbecue joint worth visiting if it serves alcohol. Maybe I see the point they are trying to make, but mostly I just think these people are dumb.

Speedy: At Martin’s, you order at the counter, choose a table, and food is brought to you once it was prepared. I liked what I saw on the menu, and wanted to sample the ribs, pork, and brisket, so I ordered a half rack and three sliders. The ribs were offered either wet or dry, and I ordered dry, making the assumption that the Memphis-style ribs would shine here. I think this was a mistake, but more on that later. The ribs came with two sides, and I ordered fries and the cornbread. I asked what color the slaw was and the cashier told me it was white, but that it was cream, not mayo, based. I have an intolerance of all things lactose, so I passed on the slaw.

Monk: What exactly does she mean by cream? Like half and half? Heavy cream? Whatever the case, that sounds awful.

Speedy: Drew and I sat down just as a whole hog was brought into a pit in the middle of the restaurant to be prepped for cooking. It was actually pretty neat getting to see the workers split the pig and trim off some of the fat to prepare for cooking. I’ve never smoked a whole hog before, so I was pretty excited to see some of the prep.

Monk: Now that sounds cool. Fortuitous timing on your part.

Rudy: I once saw a place wheeling whole dead pigs inside in grocery carts.  I figured that place was pretty fresh. And it was a bit freaky to see.

Speedy: Funny you mentioned that – someone called trying to buy a whole pig while we were there and, after much discussion, the guy prepping the pig decided it was illegal for them to sell uncooked meat. Not sure if that’s accurate or if it’s just a Tennessee law, but there you have it.

Anyway, the food was promptly brought out to our table. The portion size for the half-rack of ribs meal was pretty big – certainly enough for an entire meal. The ribs themselves were absolutely covered in dry rub. It was very clear that rub was dumped on the ribs before, during, and after smoking. While I like a good rub as much as anyone, it was clearly overdone here. The overwhelming flavor of the rub took away from the taste of the pork, and you could barely taste what type of meat you were eating. The ribs were pretty tender, but could have been more so. I was very disappointed to see that the membrane from the back of the rib had not been removed prior to smoking. This, to me, seems like an amateur mistake, and could account for some of the lack of tenderness. Drew informed me that the wet ribs were much better, and I have to believe this to be true, because the dry ribs were just not good.

Monk: I do have to think that if the wet ribs were prepared in the same way as the dry, just with the addition of sauce then they sound like they wouldn’t have been too great either.

Speedy: The sliders were much better. They are served on small buns with only a dab of sweet, tomato based sauce. I actually didn’t think the sauce worked that well with the pork, but there was so little on there, it was hard to notice. The pork would’ve been better if you slapped some vinegar or Lexington style sauce on it, but it was good as it was. The brisket was slightly better. It was served chopped and with the same sauce, but the sauce seemed to work better than the beef. The brisket slider was probably my favorite part of the meal.

Monk: There goes chopped brisket again. I still feel like that is heresy in some way.

Rudy: I agree. I’m starting to see it more here in Texas than I had before. Typically it is served on sandwiches. It just tastes like a fancy Sloppy Joe to me.  

Speedy: The fries were fine, and the cornbread was good, though it looked more like a pancake than bread.

All in all, I did enjoy my experience at Martin’s. I was greatly disappointed in the ribs, but would definitely like to give it another try to check out the sauced ribs. And if those aren’t any good, pork/brisket sliders, beer, and sports are a great consolation.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  3.5 hogs
Pork – 3 hogs
Ribs – 2 hogs
Brisket – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 2.5 hogs
Overall – 3 hogs

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The Pit – Raleigh, NC

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Name: The Pit
Date: 9/8/12
Location: 328 W. Davie St., Raleigh, NC
Order: Appetizer: Sampler plate with chopped pork, pulled pork, baby back ribs, spare ribs, beef brisket, barbecue chicken, mac & cheese, collards, hush puppies, biscuits. Main course: Family style meal with fried green tomatoes, BBQ soul rolls, chopped pork, baby back ribs, sweet potato fries, black eyed peas, and some sort of dessert (link to menu)
Bill: ~$20/person

Speedy: As Monk mentioned in the previous post, we were in Raleigh for the weekend, so of course we had to stop by The Pit for lunch. I feel like the first thing I need to do is explain the order, as we ate A LOT of food. Well, here’s how that went down:

We were joined by our buddies Sus (who previously ate with us when we reviewed Mac’s Speed Shop and Bill Spoon’s) and J-Twice (who accompanied me on my visit to Smoke on the Water). As we like to do, Monk and I took control of the order, telling the waiter we wanted to sample a bunch of different types of meats. He told us he could put together a sampler platter, even though it wasn’t on the lunch menu, allowing us to try everything we really needed to sample. Now the sampler had a good amount of food, but not enough for four grown ass men to feel satisfied, so when we finished that, our other waiter (The Pit serves tables in teams) told us about the family style option – which, for $20 per person, gives the table two appetizers, three sides, desserts for everyone, and an unlimited amount of two meats. This caused my jaw to drop and to say, “Woah woah woah! Why didn’t anyone tell us about this earlier? DON’T YOU KNOW WHO WE ARE? WE’RE THE BARBECUE BROS!” (OK, I didn’t say that last part.) Well, the waiter then said the best thing anyone has ever said to me by telling us that he would just consider our sampler as part of family style meal.

Rudy: I feel like this lack of attention to detail should be a knock against them. How do you later say “oh yeah, if you wanted we could have given you as much meat as you could shove down your throats… if you would be interested in that at all.”

Monk: Talk about coming through in the clutch. Clearly, we would have gone family style if we knew that was an option. Once the family style portions came out, we dug into the unlimited pork and baby back ribs. The pork was whole hog, eastern NC style and was definitely above average. The ribs were probably the favorite at the table (or maybe it was just J-Twice, who was a fiend for these guys), but overall I preferred the pork.

Speedy: I actually also thought the brisket was very good, and was disappointed that we couldn’t have a third meat for family style. It was a good mix of lean and fatty, sliced just right, tender, and flavorful. No sauce required for this meat – as the tangy flavor rose from within. The chicken was fine, but I wouldn’t ever order it here – there’s just too many better options.

Rudy: I see this alot here in Texas, where places offer chicken. I like barbecued chicken just fine, but rarely would I ever ever order it at a barbecue restaurant. I feel like it is a waste of an item.  I pretty much rule that out as soon as I see it on the menu.

Monk: I’m not sure I even tried the chicken. One great thing about family style at The Pit is unlimited hush puppies and biscuits (though I didn’t try the biscuits either). Our three sides were heirloom cabbage collards, black eyed peas, and sweet potato fries. The collards were really quite good but I didn’t really partake of the others. If you are noticing a trend here, it’s that we ordered a crap ton of food and by the end I was super stuffed. OH, and I haven’t even mentioned the appetizers we got as part of the family style deal! One of which was fried green tomatoes served with goat cheese and a red pepper vinaigrette. These guys were legit, but I’m of the mindset that there’s not too much that goat cheese can’t improve.

Speedy: There’s one more thing I really need to talk about here: the BBQ Soul Rolls. Basically, what these are are oversized egg rolls stuffed with chopped pork, collards, and candied carrots and they are AMONG THE BEST THINGS I HAVE EVER PUT IN MY MOUTH.

Monk: *resisting urge to make the easy joke*

Speedy: Seriously – these Soul Rolls are not invented by man – they are invented by God through man. If you go to The Pit and don’t order the Soul Rolls, not only are you missing out on a little piece of heaven, you’re kind of dumb.

Rudy: I have never heard of anything like this, but I am automatically jealous.  It sounds amazing.

Monk: The Pit is part of the Empire Eats restaurant group in Raleigh, and for that reason is frankly a little swanky for a barbecue spot. It is located in a huge, modern space in an old warehouse that has several large dining areas as well as a bar upfront. We got there a little early for lunch on Saturday, and by the time we left the place was pretty packed. In any case, my first trip to The Pit was a great success. Although they no longer have the famed original pitmaster Ed Mitchell (they parted ways in early 2011), they still cook pretty legit eastern NC style ‘cue.

Speedy: Overall, I really enjoyed my trip to The Pit – a place I hadn’t been to in over a year. I loved being to sample such a variety of food and I LOVE the family style option. If I lived in Raleigh, I think this would be my go-to barbecue place. My only regret was that I didn’t have room in my stomach to eat more.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  3.5 hogs
Pork – 4 hogs
Ribs – 3 hogs
Brisket – 3.5 hogs
Chicken – 2 hogs
Sides – 3 hogs
BBQ Soul Rolls – 5 hogs
Overall – 4 hogs
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Rock Store Bar-B-Q – Mint Hill, NC

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Name: Rock Store Bar-B-Q
Date: 8/10/12
Location: 7032 Brighton Park, Mint Hill, NC 28227
Order: BBQ Pork and Brisket combo plate, hush puppies, beans, sweet tea (link to menu)
Bill: $9.75

Trying to take feedback from Speedy to heart, on this visit to the Mint Hill location of Rock Store Bar-B-Q (click here for the review of the original Stallings location) I ordered a combo platter of both BBQ pork and brisket. I still haven’t had the ribs at either place, so while I made some effort, I fear that it will all be in vain in the eyes of both Speedy and Rudy.

As opposed to the original location, a stand-alone historic gas station structure, the Mint Hill restaurant is located at the end of a strip mall in what looks to have been a former Jersey Mike’s (I tend to have a keen eye for Jersey Mike’s since Speedy and I worked at one in high school for several years).

As you walk up to the front door to this location, you are greeted by a decal that states “Wood Smoked Daily” before you actually do get a whiff of smoke when you enter the door. I still wasn’t able to determine if this is due to the use of a stick burning smoker or an electric or gas burner with wood chips. However, I remain skeptical of there being a stick burner in a strip mall, so I am still working off the gas or electric smoker theory.

Nevertheless, I walked up and ordered a BBQ pork combo plate, adding brisket with my two sides being hush puppies and beans. Unfortunately, the pork was as dry as  the sandwich at the original location so again, sauce was a must. A healthy dose of their tangy Stallings Secret sauce worked best with the pork, but I did notice a pool of grease collecting at the bottom of the styrofoam plate. Not the most appetizing visual for lunch.

As I suspected from my visit to the other location, the brisket here is actually coarsely chopped in the same manner as the pork. And it is just as dry. To my surprise, I found that the Carolina Gold mustard-based sauce actually worked best with the brisket but overall it was pretty unremarkable. However, thankfully there was no pool of grease here.

The hush puppies were a nice surprise, as they weren’t available at the original location. They were big and fluffy and the best part of the meal. The BBQ beans were passable but I didn’t eat too much of them, focusing on the meat and hush puppies.

So while this time around I did get more than my usual portions in the interests of the Barbecue Bros and left with a full belly. Unfortunately it was a belly full of average-at-best barbecue.

-Monk

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  2.5 hogs
Brisket – 2 hogs
Pork – 2.5 hogs
Sides – 3 hogs
Overall – 2.5 hogs

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Mint Hill Rock Store Bar B Que on Foodio54

Rudy’s Country Store and Bar-B-Q – Austin, TX

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Name: Rudy’s Country Store and Bar-B-Q
Date: 7/30/12
Location: 2451 South Capital of Texas Hwy, Austin, Texas
Order: Rudy: ½ pound brisket – moist, ½ link jalapeno sausage.  Mrs. Rudy: Regular sausage link, potato salad, cream corn (link to menu)
Bill: $23

Rudy: Rarely do you eat food from a gas station and leave thinking, “that was a good idea.” But strangely that has not always been the case with barbecue (Oklahoma Joe’s in KC anyone?). Rudy’s is a chain, and not all of their locations are at gas stations, but this one was… and for a chain, Rudy’s has some pretty good barbecue.

Monk: I think I really like the idea of a barbecue joint inside a gas station. Somehow makes the barbecue that much more appealing.

Rudy: The atmosphere is one place that Rudy’s really stands out. There is a winding line to get to the front, but as you are waiting, they have a large cooler where you can pick out your drink (see photo below). Above the drink cooler is a glass case holding a cattle prod, which says, break in case of slow moving lines. This Monday night, it was not needed, and we proceeded directly to the front of the line. When you place your order at the front counter, the guy asks if you have been there before. If not, they let you sample all of their meats before you order. Fantastic.

Monk: …love this idea, too, by the by.

Rudy: When you do order, the guy cutting the meat pulls a huge chunk of meat from a smoker, cuts it right there for you to see. They even have a ‘cutter cam’ which shows an overhead view of the butcher’s block. They then pack your entire order into a plastic crate for you to take and eat at their picnic tables. Also adding to the atmosphere is a large communal hand washing station, complete with trough sinks.  

Monk: Sounds like on atmosphere and ambiance alone, this is a fun and worthwhile place to check out.

Rudy: But I didn’t come here for a examination of their decor, I was here to review their food. I ordered a half pound of their brisket and opted for a moist cut. This is pretty standard for me, and how I try to get a reading on how good a restaurant is. Rudy’s uses a strong pepper rub on their brisket, so the crust around each piece brings a tremendous amount of flavor and don’t require Rudy’s signature sauce. The slices that I had were very juicy and tender. The only complaint that I had was that there was no consistency between all of the pieces of brisket. Some were great and some seemed like average end pieces that were a bit dry. But because of the rub that they use, even these pieces had loads of flavor.

I have become a big fan of sausages and Rudy’s makes a pretty good one. I got the jalapeno, which was nice, but many places make jalapeno and cheddar sausages. The cream of the cheese cuts some of the heat from the peppers. I enjoy hot foods, but the sausages with cheese are still better. That is why I will count off some for Rudy’s, but their sausages are still pretty good.

Normally if the best thing on the menu is a side item, that does not say much for your barbecue. But the best item at Rudy’s is their cream corn, and it isn’t even close.  And that is not an insult to their brisket. I am sure it is the least healthy item that has ever been associated a vegetable, but it is amazing. They also serve potato salad, green beans, and (don’t tell Monk and Speedy) mayo-based cole slaw.  

Monk: I’m guessing mayo slaw is the norm in Texas, or am I wrong here?

Rudy: There doesn’t seem to be too much consistency on that. Places are either mayo based or some vinegar base, but nothing like the typical barbecue slaw that you are used to in North Carolina. As far as the other sides, don’t bother yourself with these, the menu might as well serve 1 side. That is the only complaint, that there isn’t a great amount of variety to their sides. But when you make one of them perfect, it doesn’t really matter what the others are.

Monk: It’s cool that there is an amazing sounding side, but also kind of lame that the other sides aren’t worth bothering. Guess that makes my choice easy if I ever make it Rudy’s.

Rudy: Rudy’s slogan is “Worst Bar-B-Q in Texas” but don’t believe that lie. It might be a chain, and it might not be the best in the state, but it is still pretty good. The atmosphere doesn’t make you feel like you are at a chain, and their convenience and good prices make it my go to place when I need some good quick barbecue. That, and they also have a pretty catchy name, if I say so myself.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  4.5 hogs
Brisket – 3 hogs
Sausage – 3 hogs
Sides – 4 hogs
Overall – 3.5 hogs

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