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Linkdown: 8/7/13

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A Two Guns-style rundown of barbecue links…

– In “late to the party” news, the state of South Carolina tourism board is planning to market a barbecue trail

– An AP story on how to make a Lexington-style pulled pork sandwich complete with dip has been circulating various newspapers and websites lately, and funnily enough a Texas newspaper has picked it up

– In other Texas-North Carolina happenings, the pitmaster from Midwood Smokehouse in Charlotte recently made a trek to Texas to attend a barbecue camp at Texas A&M but I have it on good authority that the real reason behind it was to offer Johnny Football his autograph for money

– A new Food Network show about The Shed barbecue/blues joint in Mississippi (oddly enough, titled “The Shed”) premiered on Sunday night but is unfortunately one of those “heavily-scripted reality shows where everyone comes across as a bad actor”

– Speaking of which, Winston-Salem pitmaster Mark Little of “Bib’s Downtown” lost in a semifinal episode of “BBQ Pitmasters” that also aired this past Sunday

– Blue Mist Bar-B-Que has closed down in Asheboro; I’ve never been there and haven’t been to the zoo in 20 years but they cooked barbecue the right way and I’m sad I won’t get to go now

– Kansas City Chiefs nose tackle Dontari Poe has lost 15 pounds since quitting barbecue in June and the answer to your question is yes, it would millions of dollars in order for me to quit barbecue

-Monk

McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon – Charlotte, NC

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Name: McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon
Date: 8/2/13
Location: 4630 Old Pineville Road, Charlotte, NC 28217
Order: BBQ pork platter with slaw and fries (link to menu)
Bill: $10.99

Still in search of the best barbecue in Charlotte, McKoy’s Smokehouse had actually come up in conversation with a friend a few weeks back whose co-worker recommended it to him as one of the better places in Charlotte. Not the strongest of reasons for going – “um, a coworker of a friend sorta recommended it” –  but whatever we’ll go with it.

Stepping out of the car, I did get a nice whiff of smoke which is always nice to see/smell as you are walking up to a joint. Once seated inside, I noted that there are a handful of barbecue options under the “Vittles” section of the menu – pulled pork, “award-winning” St. Louis ribs, half bbq chicken, and pit-smoked pot roast – but naturally we judge NC joints on pulled pork so that’s what I went with. Interestingly, according to the menu the pulled pork is “smoked for 14 hours over pecan wood” which is a bit odd for NC where most places use hickory, oak, or a mix of both.

The pulled pork came out moist and with nice pieces of bark but really lacked any flavor or smoke. The table sauces were a vinegar-based sauce and a thicker Kansas City-style sauce, and really the vinegar sauce worked best but still the pork just ultimately lacked flavor.

The sides – mayo-based slaw and fries – were average and I really don’t need to waste too much space talking about them.

So yea, McKoy’s Smokehouse and Saloon is definitely not in the conversation of the best barbecue in the Charlotte – it’s really middle of the road at best. The decor is very much southern/biker/sports bar and grill and I could see it being a decent place to watch sports if you happen to be nearby, but for barbecue purposes feel free to head elsewhere.

-Monk

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  2.5 Hogs
Pork – 2.5 Hogs
Sides – 2.5 Hogs
Overall – 2.5 Hogs

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McKoy's Smokehouse and Saloon on Urbanspoon

McKoy's Smokehouse and Saloon on Foodio54

Old Hickory House Restaurant – Charlotte, NC (CLOSED)

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Name: Old Hickory House Restaurant
Date: 7/25/13
Location: 6538 N.Tryon St, Charlotte, NC, 28205
Order: Small pork plate with slaw and hush puppies (link to menu)
Bill: $11.19

In our review for Bill Spoon’s Barbecue, I stated that it is “pretty much the closest thing we have to a well-respected, old school barbecue joint.” Well, I may have misspoke a little bit because Old Hickory House Restaurant has been doing its own thing at its current location on North Tryon Street since 1956, 7 years before Bill Spoon’s even opened.

Despite its proximity to NoDa, it had actually been a number of years since I had eaten here. However, despite not remembering loving it at the time I was interested to see how it would stack up to the other Charlotte joints we have reviewed recently. In addition to its age, Old Hickory House does have a couple of things going for it – namely a wagon wheel-chic decor that looks like it hasn’t changed since it opened as well as the fact that you can see and smell the hickory smoke as soon as you open your car door in the parking lot.

Inside, I sat myself and ordered a very good sweet tea from the waitress (who has apparently been there for 15 years) and then a small pork plate with slaw and hush puppies. While waiting for my food, I couldn’t help but notice the small wood burning pit open for the entire dining room to see. I confirmed with the owner David Carter after my meal that he does cook over hickory logs and then also drove around back afterwards to check out the pile. So you see, its not just a clever name.

The meal comes quickly and one thing I hadn’t remembered was the side of Texas toast, a bit unusual for North Carolina. But ah, you see, this actually isn’t a North Carolina-style joint. According to Bob Garner’s Big Book of Barbecue, the Carter Family (who opened the restaurant in the 50’s and still run it today) has roots in Georgia and Alabama. So while you can order Brunswick stew, it won’t be North Carolina style. And while the slaw is mayo-based similar to eastern-style slaw, it contains dill instead of the normal pickle that eastern and Lexington have. And then you have the pork.

The pork itself is actually quite good, more minced than chopped and full of bark and smoke and moistness. But it is smothered in this peculiar reddish-brown barbecue sauce after it is spooned onto the plate which is a bit citrusy and tangy and unlike any sauce I’ve had before. And unfortunately, it isn’t really for me. I would have loved to have had the pork without the sauce (because from what I could tell it was really good) and if I ever go again I may ask for it on the side to use sparingly. The hush puppies were excellent and the slaw was pretty good. And I was fairly hungry so I ate the two slices of Texas toast provided.

All in all, not a bad meal at all. Just not the style of barbecue I usually prefer.

-Monk

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 4 Hogs
Pork – 3 Hogs
Sides – 3 Hogs
Overall – 3 Hogs

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Old Hickory House on Urbanspoon

Old Hickory House Restaurant on Foodio54

The Q Shack – Raleigh, NC

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Name: The Q Shack
Date: 7/8/13
Location: 4120 Main at North Hills St, Raleigh, NC
Order: Three meat combo plate with pulled pork, beef brisket, smoked sausage, collards, fried okra, and hush puppies (link to menu)
Bill: $16

After Rudy’s history making first 0 hog review, I felt like I needed to share a barbecue experience I had lately that was (spoiler alert) equally terrible.

I arrived after work this particular Monday at the North Hills Raleigh Renaissance – a hotel I had never stayed at before. As I had a fair amount of stuff I needed to get done before some meetings the next day, I decided to just get some takeout and eat in my room. I was pleased to find a barbecue joint just around the corner from the hotel, so clearly, that was my choice for dinner.

Walking in, I started to get a little skittish, as there was a large placard advertising wine (WTF?). I should’ve known then and there to turn around. But the restaurant was spacious and comfortable looking, putting me a bit at ease. The cafeteria line made me a little nervous, but I ignored it because I’ve had great meals in similarly set up restaurants.

As I like to do when trying new restaurants, I opted for a combo plate in order to try several different types of meat. At The Q Shack, you order cafeteria-line style and your meat/sides are spooned onto your plate (or my to go box) from the line, so it’s hard to know how long it’s been sitting out. However, I was excited when my cut of brisket was carved in front of me from the full brisket that was kept warm in a warmer oven. All went well with my order, as everything looked great.

When I got to my room, I eagerly took out my to go box and silverware and forked a nice portion of pork. This is where the problems started. The pork was terrible. It literally tasted like it had been sitting under a heat lamp for days. It was dry, and instead of a lack of flavor that I usually associate with bad barbecue, there was a bad flavor. Honestly, I once tried a McRib and I think it tasted better. I applied some of the sauce that was given to me on the side, and while that helped, it only moved the pork from awful to almost tolerable. Honestly, I should have stopped the meal then and there, but I thought to myself, “surely the brisket can’t be worse.” Well, turns out it can be just as bad. Had I not seen it sliced before my eyes, I would’ve thought I was eating Oscar Meyer lunch meat. The brisket was rubbery and tasted like a bad pot roast. Somehow I stomached a second bite, but it was just as bad as the first. Being a glutton for punishment, I moved on to the sausage. The sausage, fortunately, was far and away the best meat in that it was edible. Don’t get me wrong – it was still bad – but at least there was some flavor there. It was rubbery and over-cooked, but I feel like it would have been OK had it been cooked properly.

The sides were average, which means they were the best part of the meal. The fried okra was fine, though nothing special, and the collards were decent. The hushpuppies were actually pretty good. Basically, the sides are what prevented me from having to go out and get a second meal after the catastrophe that was the meat.

I didn’t take any photos of my meal, but no one would want to see it anyway. Honestly, I’m just glad I survived.

-Speedy

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 1 hog
Pork – 0 hogs
Brisket – 0 hogs
Sausage – 0.5 hogs
Sides – 1.5 hogs
Overall – 0 hogs