Michael Wagner’s Return to Texas is a Big Loss for Charlotte Barbecue

Monk: Last month, Michael Wagner left Midwood Smokehouse and its parent company FS Food Group to return back to Texas. I was fortunate enough to meet Michael within a few weeks of him moving to Charlotte in 2016 to help open the short-lived Midwood Smokeshack and I also interviewed him and Matthew Barry in 2019 for our Pitmaster Profile series as the two main pitmasters for Midwood Smokehouse. Michael has always struck me as a very thoughtful and passionate person about barbecue, and his departure is a big loss for the Charlotte barbecue community. To bookend his time in NC, I wanted to check back in ahead of his big move.

Congrats on the new job! Where are you headed and what’s the new position?

Thanks! I’m going to Dallas, Texas to cook for Terry Black’s BBQ. I’ll be one of the crew of pitmasters at the restaurant.

What’s the first (non-barbecue) thing you’re going to do when you step foot back in Texas?

This is a big transition, and I have some time before I start work, so I’m going camping. Two weeks in the woods with my hammock and my stove.

That sounds very serene; I’m jealous. What are you most looking forward to when it comes to working again at a barbecue joint in Texas?

The pits themselves and the energy at the restaurants.

Any barbecue joints you plan to visit as soon as you get settled in Dallas?

Vaquero’s, Dayne’s, Hurtado’s

Michael and Monk in July 2016

It was right at 5 years with FS Food Group. What are your memories from Midwood Smokeshack where I first met you back in 2016?

Man. Time flies. When I think of The Shack, I remember not knowing how to really cook anything besides BBQ. That was the beginning of a 5 year crash course. I think of Samantha, (she manages for Paco’s Tacos & Tequila now) and learning how to manage all that time.

What are your thoughts on the state of barbecue in Charlotte as you depart?

I’m happy to see a community of committed pitmasters forming. There’s been great food here all along. BBQ has a soul, and it needs a community to foster it.

(L-R): Monk, Lewis Donald of Sweet Lew’s BBQ, Stuart Henderson of Noble Smoke, and Michael Wagner)

Is there anything in particular you will take back to Texas from your time in NC?

Man, so much. I love all the trees, still have never gotten over them. I got pretty serious into disc golfing while here as a way to get out into all the parks. Mostly, I’m leaving here knowing that I capable of much more than smoking meat.

Thanks to Michael for taking his time in answering my questions, particularly in the middle of his big move. I hope to make it to Dallas and Terry Black’s soon to visit!

Friday Find: “The Only South Indian Texas BBQ Joint In The US”

At Southern Junction in Buffalo, TX, South Indian + Texas barbecue = Crazy Delicious

Description: Tucked away in Buffalo’s Black Rock neighborhood is Southern Junction, the only restaurant combining Texas barbecue with South Indian flavors. Chef-owner Ryan Fernandez moved to Texas from India during his childhood and immediately took refuge in the similarities between Texas BBQ & South Indian street cooking, as both are cooked low and slow over live fire. After moving to Buffalo, quitting his job in the tech industry, and working at several restaurants, Ryan opened up his own restaurant where he serves brisket, sausage, and ribs alongside tikka, curries, cardamom cornbread, serrano mac and cheese, and more.

Checking In: Breakfast Tacos at Juan Luis

If you’re reading this, its unfortunately too late to grab a breakfast taco from the Juan Luis trailer in front of Lewis Barbecue in Charleston.

Before it changed over to “JLs” after August 2, Juan Luis served delicious breakfast tacos with homemade tortillas made in the trailer unlike anything I’ve had. Of course, Charlotte and NC doesn’t have the breakfast taco culture that Austin or the Southwest has.

I had both the migas (crispy corn tortillas strips, avocado, pico de Gallo, eggs, cheese) and the toro (green chile beef, pintos, onions, egg, cheese) on my one and only visit and these tacos were life-changing. Particularly the migas, which I still think about to this day.

After a quick refresh, JLs will serve green chile cheeseburgers, green chile cheese dogs, frozen custard sundaes and margaritas. I imagine it will be worth checking out.

The Juan Luis concept will be transferred to Rancho Lewis, which is coming soon to the former Workshop food hall at 1503 King St in Winter 2022. For me, it will be a must stop next time I’m in Charleston.

Friday Find: “Kansas City’s Best New BBQ Joint Is In A Haunted House: Chef J BBQ”

Monk: In their first produced video (with the help of Tarik Sykes), The Smoke Sheet profiles Pitmaster Justin Easterwood of Chef J BBQ who sells his barbecue until it sells out in downtown Kansas City.

Description:

Pitmaster Justin Easterwood opened Chef J BBQ in downtown Kansas City’s historic West Bottoms neighborhood early in 2020. The restaurant is located inside The Beast haunted house and serves the highest quality cut-to-order smoked meats and fresh house made side dishes.

Chef J BBQ
1401 W. 13th Suite G Street,
Kansas City, Mo 64102
Ph: (816)805-8283