Haywood Smokehouse Brings Texas BBQ to the Mountains of NC

Name: Haywood Smokehouse
Date: 1/27/24
Address: 403 Haywood Rd, Dillsboro, NC 28725
Order: 2-meat combo platter with pork and brisket plus cole slaw and collards  (Link to menu)
Price: $$$

Monk: After some really positive experiences at Ridgewood Barbecue and Old Hampton Store in late 2023, could my luck with mountain barbecue continue into early 2024 at the Dillsboro outpost of Haywood Smokehouse?

Haywood Smokehouse is a small three-restaurant mini-chain with other western NC locations in Waynesville and Franklin. They specialize in Texas barbecue and at least in Dillsboro smoke with hickory wood using a gas-assist smoker located just off their small parking lot.

Open the door into a cozy dining room, and you are greeted by wood paneling and wood tables. As with many NC barbecue joints back east, you are greeted in short order by a waitress to take your drink order and within just a few minutes of sitting you have placed your food order as well.

For my two meat combo, I selected pork and brisket and all of our orders were brought out rather quickly. No complaints there. As for either meat, while slightly above average, neither the chopped pork nor the brisket stood out. The pork had plenty of bark chopped into a coarsely chopped but the brisket could have used some trimming and in fact some of it was unrendered as if it had been sitting for awhile (possibly overnight?).

For sides, the story continued with neither the cole slaw nor the collards standing out and if either were pre-packaged or semi-homemade (Sandra Lee style) it wouldn’t have surprised me.

Alas, it would not be a three-peat for mountain barbecue. While Haywood Smokehouse is fine, it doesn’t reach the heights of either Ridgewood or Old Hampton Store in large part due to its use of a gas-assisted smoker.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 3 hogs
Brisket – 3 hogs
Pulled pork – 3 hogs
Sides – 2.5 hogs
Overall – 3 hogs

Texas BBQ, with a foreign spin

Monk: From November 2023, CBS Sunday Morning sits down with Kareem El-Ghayesh of KG BBQ, Don Nguyen of Khoi Barbecue, Tatsu Aikawa of Kemuri Tatsu-Ya, and Texas Monthly Barbecue Editor Daniel Vaughn to discuss the newer fusion barbecue places in Texas that spotlight flavors not native to central. Just don’t call it fusion.

Description: The Lone Star State’s distinctive barbecue is getting some impressive variations, with the help of pitmasters with roots in such places as Egypt, Vietnam and Japan. Correspondent Lee Cowan talks with some of the new bright lights of Texas BBQ, and with Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor of Texas Monthly.

Linkdown: 2/7/24

Featured

Monk: Resident Culture’s Southend location has officially unveiled their barbecue menu, helmed by former Noble Smoke and Sauceman’s pitmaster Edgar Simoes.

The food will be smoked at the Southend location of the brewery but also available from a food truck at the original Plaza Midwood location.

Native News

The North-South BBQ Bowl is officially a go

The Jon G’s x NoDa Brewing x Town Brewing beer collaboration Nuthin’ But A G’s Thang smoked Vienna lager was released yesterday

Noble Smoke is having a gift card giveaway that ends tomorrow, 2/8

New Sam Jones BBQ merch

Non-Native News

Palmira Barbecue is officially open Thursday to Sunday, from 11am until sold out

Franklin Barbecue’s brisket buttery croissants on sale for one week starting today at Épicerie in Austin

Meat Church’s Matt Pittman lost to Hometown Barbecue’s Billy Delaney on Fallon

Innovations in barbecue food photography from Tales from the Pits

Congrats to Soul Food Scholar Adrian Miller on his induction into the Blacks in Colorado Hall of Fame

Pecan Lodge in Dallas continues to be a must-visit

Name: Pecan Lodge
Date: 1/6/24
Address: 2702 Main St., Dallas, TX
Order: “The Trough” (1 beef rib, 1lb of pork ribs, 1lb brisket, 1/2 lb of pulled pork & 2 sausage links), half pound turkey, collards, fried okra  (Link To Menu)
Price: $$$

Speedy: On my second day of Dallas, it was time to return to Pecan Lodge, a barbecue mecca that I had not visited since 2018. Arriving at around 10:50 AM, ten minutes prior to opening, my group of three was greeted with a small line of maybe a dozen people ahead of us, far shorter than the last time I visited, in the before times (aka in 2018). After a short wait, it was our turn to order.

When it comes to ordering at Pecan Lodge, you only have to make two decisions: 1) what sides do you want? (we went with collards and okra); and 2) what meat(s) do you want in addition to The Trough (we went with turkey)? I cannot stress this enough – you must order the Trough at Pecan Lodge, regardless of how many people you are with. The only exception is if you have a big group and need to order two or more Troughs. Not that we’ve settled that, let’s talk about the food.

The brisket was just as I remembered – peppery and flavorful – and remains the top dog at Pecan Lodge. There’s not much to say about it other than it remains in my top tier of brisket ever tasted, the likes of which you would be hard pressed to find outside of Texas.

The other 5 hog item from my last review was the beef rib. I’m sorry to report that the beef rib did not quite live up to those 5 hog expectations next time. The rib was still very good – meaty, cooked well, and tender, but I felt it was a little under seasoned this time.

The other meat that I was slightly let down by (mostly due to crazy high expectations) was the pulled pork. While tender, the pork was a little dry this time around, and frankly needed some sauce. Thankfully, there was plenty of vinegar sauce available to remedy this, but the pork was probably my least favorite part of the meal.

On the positive end of the spectrum were the ribs. In my latest review on Terry Black’s Barbecue, I went on the great rib rant of 2024, only for the barbecue gods to deliver me two good rib experiences in a row. I had previously been disappointed by the ribs at the Lodge, but on this date, they were meaty, perfectly cooked, seasoned well, and delicious. I would put them a notch behind Terry Black’s (that glaze was good!) but still very good.

The sausage and turkey were both above average, and the sides were everything I remembered (aka really good); recommended all around.

All of that was a lot of food, which meant tons of leftovers. Which means, dear reader, it’s time for a new category – reheatability.

Monk: Wait a minute, I thought we needed to take a vote to introduce a new category…

Speedy: …I’ve found that reheating barbecue can be a hit or miss activity, causing dry meats to become inedible and otherwise damaging meats that are not seasoned appropriately. None of that was a problem for anything at Pecan Lodge. I’m not sure how they did it but every meat (and the okra!) from Pecan Lodge re-heated wonderfully with 20 minutes in the oven. It was honestly as good heated up later as it was at the restaurant. 5 hogs!

One challenge about going back to the scene of a heavenly barbecue experience is that expectations have changed. There is no surprise left, and anything that is less than perfect is magnified.

Monk: That was…beautiful, Speedy.

Speedy: That said, the meal at Pecan Lodge was still an amazing experience, and among the best meals I’d had in a long time. If you’re in Dallas, it’s still a must visit.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 4 hogs
Brisket – 5 hogs
Beef Rib – 4 hogs
Pork Ribs – 4.5 hogs
Pulled pork – 3.5 hogs
Sausage – 4 hogs
Turkey – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 4.5 hogs
Re-heatability – 5 hogs
Overall – 5 hogs (the brisket is that good, y’all)