Linkdown: 9/23/15

– Rodney Scott has influenced Sean Brock. Here’s how:

– The history of smoking with mesquite wood

– Marie, Let’s Eat! makes a quick sojourn to SC and visits Hite’s and Little Pigs in the Columbia area, as well as Dennis’ Bar-B-Q on the way back home

– Washington Post’s glossary of NC barbecue terms and where to eat in NC

– Washington Post’s Jim Shahin: Why North Carolina’s Barbecue Scene is Still Smoldering

North Carolina barbecue is certainly at a crossroads, one that gets to the heart of questions about identity and authenticity, and the survival of pit-smoked pork establishments that eschew the everything-for-everybody approach once seemed unlikely. But Skylight Inn and Lexington Barbecue are on track to maybe prove that prediction wrong. And new places such as Picnic and Buxton Hall are helping spark a resurgence in creativity and respect for heritage that may help revive the scene. North Carolina barbecue might someday be removed from the endangered-species list, after all. I’ll hold off on that autopsy for now.

McCall’s Bar-B-Q and Seafood – Goldsboro, NC

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Name
: McCall’s Bar-B-Que & Seafood
Date: 9/4/15
Address: 139 Millers Chapel Rd, Goldsboro, NC 27534
Order: Pork barbecue sandwich with slaw on top, hush puppies, and drink (link to menu)
Price: $7.59

Monk: A little over two years ago on our way to Atlantic Beach on NC’s Crystal Coast, I had my first and only experience at Wilber’s Barbecue in Goldsboro. Looking back on that meal, I could have probably rated it a little higher than I did back then at 4 hogs. As much as I would have loved to revisit Wilber’s on a return trip back to Atlantic Beach this past Labor Day, there were a couple other barbecue joints on highway 70 that I decided to try instead. McCall’s BBQ & Seafood was the choice on the drive out this time, just a half mile past Wilber’s in a huge white barn.

Speedy: Monk – before you go any further, I just want to interject. Is there ever a case when you have a hankering for good ole ‘cue and the solution is going to a place that says, “& Seafood” in the name?

Monk: You know, that’s probably a fair point. But even if its not explicitly in the name, several places down east serve seafood along with barbecue. Fuller’s Old Fashion BBQ in Lumberton was another example that turned out pretty well for me.

We were in between lunch and dinner, so I went with a snack of just a pork sandwich and hush puppies. When going eastern style, I prefer to have the mayo slaw served on my sandwiches. And I don’t expect to have a lot of smoke or bark since its coming from a whole hog with the different cuts mixed together. The sandwich was very moist and flavorful and even though I wasn’t exactly hungry, I ate it up very quickly. A minor quibble would have been the lack of spice, since I didn’t grab any Texas Pete packets on my way out.

The hush puppies weren’t as sweet as I liked but were hot out of the fryer. I had no major complaints.

You’ll see soon that I tried another place down the road in Kinston later on this trip, which I will spoil slightly and say that I enjoyed a little more than this sandwich from McCall’s BBQ & Seafood which was by no means bad. However, next time I’m on the highway 70 corridor passing through Goldsboro or Kinston, I’ll likely opt for Wilber’s over both.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – N/A
Pork – 3 hogs
Sides – 2 hogs
Overall – 2.5 hogs
McCall's Bar-B-Cue & Seafood Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Linkdown: 9/16/15

– Robert Moss’s second part in his Best of Southern BBQ Awards

– On the different styles of Texas barbecue, from Daniel Vaughn

– Washington Post has a job profile on a barbecue pitmaster from the DC area

– According to Charlotte Observer food critic Helen Schwab, the pork sammie from Kyle Fletcher’s is one of the 5 must-eat dishes for newcomers to the Charlotte area

– Elliot Moss of Buxton Hall is participating in The Hangout Oyster Cook-Off & Craft Beer Weekend in Gulf Shores, AL in November

– TMBBQ has some barbecue recommendations for Colbert in NYC (though he’s been filming there for almost 10 years now)

Bitterroot BBQ – Seattle, WA

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Name: Bitterroot BBQ
Date: 8/21/15
Address: 5239 Ballard Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107
Order: The Cowboy Killer platter with pork, brisket, chicken, baby back ribs, 2 links of sausage, couple of beers, flight of whiskey (link to menu)
Price: $125

Monk: So for the first time in over a year, all three bros were reunited. Last July, we gathered at Lexington Barbecue (our collective favorite joint) and gave it a 5 hog review. This time around we were all in Seattle for our high school friend Boomsauce’s bachelor party, dubbed the #legionofboomsauce. And, spoiler alert, the barbecue was not anywhere near as good. Not even close.

Speedy: Yeah – I guess I wasn’t expecting much from ‘cue in Seattle, but with all three bros together, we had to at least give it a shot.

Rudy: I was a bit apprehensive, however it seems as though there has been a big migration of good barbecue places across the country recently. Good barbecue is not just reserved for the traditional locations, which gave me some hope.

Speedy: Walking in, I was a bit encouraged. The smoker was a big gasser inside the restaurant, but there was a fair amount of wood lying around (and one guy working stated they went through quite a bit of wood daily) so I was hoping for some nice smoky flavor. I also was glad to see a large combo meal on the menu, especially one with a name like the “Cowboy Killer.” And we ended up spending a little more because we were not allowed to sub out the chicken for sausage, so our solution was to add on two links.  

Monk: The other great thing about the “Cowboy Killer” platter was that it got the song “Psycho Killer” stuck in Speedy’s head for the rest of the afternoon. On to the meat…the pork was unanimously decided to be the worst of the meats we tried at Bitterroot. Zero smoke and no flavor. I’m wasting no more words on it.

Rudy: I agree about the pork. I was really craving some good pulled pork, so to say I was let down is an understatement. I’ve had crockpot-cooked pulled pork that was 10 times better and more flavorful than what they served.

Upon first sight I had reservations about the brisket. The biggest red flag for me was that there was NO smoke ring.  If they have a smoker and go through all that wood each day, as they stated, they would at least stumble onto a smoke ring. The pieces that I had were slightly dry, however they did have a decent bark and most importantly it was really well seasoned, giving the meat a good flavor. It may not have looked the part, but it tasted close to the part. It was the best of the meats, but it also wasn’t having to clear a high hurdle with that.

Speedy: The ribs were better than the pork, but a step down from the brisket. They were cooked decently, but I couldn’t taste a rub at all, so I was left wanting more flavor. I understand the idea of letting the meat do the talking, but sometimes you need some salt and pepper to give the meat a bigger voice. Overall the ribs are a pass.

Rudy: We ordered the sausage separately because there were no substitutions.  It was basically alright. I thought it was a bit dry and crumbly. I prefer sausage where the casing has a snap to it, which this one didn’t have. It was also a little bit spicy for my taste. I like spice, but I thought it the sausage was too overpowering and distracted from any flavor that it might have had otherwise. They could have taken some of the seasoning from the sausage and added it to other meats and improved them all. Speaking of which…

Monk: I’m not the biggest fan of chicken at a barbecue joint, but I think I tolerate it more than these other guys. Also, there were no substitutions for the cowboy killer. I found the chicken to be tender and juicy but – stop me if we’re starting to sound like a broken record – there just was no seasoning and I found the meat to be bland.

Rudy: Bitterroot offered several traditional and nontraditional sides.  We tried the greens, cauliflower, cornbread, and hushpuppies. The greens and hushpuppies were pretty good and the cornbread wasn’t bad. The cauliflower wasn’t anything to write home about.  I liked the selection but everything was just ok to a little above average.

Speedy: By far the best thing about Bitterroot was the Whiskey menu. They had an EXCELLENT selection, including some very hard to find stuff, at very reasonable prices. We took part in a flight from High West (one of my favs), but I would’ve liked to have gone back to sample some more. And the beer list was not shabby either. It was also nice that they were able to seat our group of ten easily.

Monk: Beyond the whiskey and beer selection, that huge farmhouse table that sat our party of 10 was another highlight of the meal. Notice what we are highlighting here…nothing about any of the meats or actual food.

Rudy: I think the biggest indictment of the barbecue at Bitterroot BBQ was that we had plans of trying another Seattle barbecue place the next day, and based on what was claimed to be good Seattle barbecue, we changed our plans and ate at a French restaurant instead.  That’s when you know the terrorists have won.

Ratings:
Atmosphere – 3.5 hogs
Pork – 0 hogs
Brisket – 2.5 hogs
Ribs – 2 hogs
Sausage – 2 hogs
Chicken – 1.5 hogs
Sides – 2 hogs
Overall – 2 hogs
Bitterroot BBQ Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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