Monk: Daniel Vaughn (aka BBQ Snob), Barbecue Editor for Texas Monthly, made a trip to North Carolina last week (with a jag up to Norfolk) to taste what the Old North State has to currently offer in terms of Texas barbecue. Long story short, he was “blown away” by the “staggeringly good” barbecue he tasted on this trip. The stops he called out:
For the Charlotte area, no surprise that he remains a fan of Jon G’s, but good to see Sweet Lew’s gets a shoutout as well as newcomer Union Barbecue, whom I haven’t had a chance to try yet. Dampf Good and Old Colony are on my list as well for NC.
You may recall that Vaughn did a similar trip through South Carolina and Georgia last summer where he praised City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia and Fork Grove Barbecue in Anderson among others. I would expect a similar story in the next week or so about North Carolina, and I can’t wait to read it.
Firehawk Brewpub is hosting a 5 course, family-style dinner featuring the smoked specialties of Chefs Scott Blackwood and Chris Coleman as well as cocktails from Mixologist Bob Peters; tickets available here
Name: Terry Black’s Barbecue (Dallas) Date: 1/5/24 Address: 3025 Main St., Dallas, TX Order: Brisket, pork ribs, (original) sausage, turkey (Link To Menu) Price: $$
Speedy: On the first weekend of the new year, I went down to Dallas to spend the weekend with a couple of friends. I had already prepped the squad that a visit to Pecan Lodge was a must, which we had planned for Saturday afternoon but that left Friday night open, at least cuisine-wise. When searching close by restaurants, I came upon Terry Black’s Barbecue. Obviously I am familiar with the Black family, and I remember quite fondly my 2014 visit to Black’s Barbecue in Lockhart. So I asked my (normally non-barbecue) bros if they wanted to double up on the ‘cue. They agreed and it was on.
We arrived at the restaurant, which was a typical Texas cafeteria style joint. It was fairly crowded (not many open tables), but only around 5 people in front of us in line, so the wait was short. Side note: Terry Black’s in Dallas has a nice, large outdoor space with plenty of tables, but this evening was a little chilly so it was empty.
We went through and ordered sides (green beans and mac &cheese) and got to a meat station. One thing I really appreciated is that once you got through the sides line, there were several meat slicers, since that takes a little more time. This moved the line really quickly. We got our order, found a table, and it was time to dig in.
Being a Texas joint, let’s start with the brisket. We were not asked whether we wanted fatty or lean brisket (not sure if this is still a thing – we were not asked at Pecan Lodge the next day either), but we ended up with lean. The worry here, obviously, is the brisket getting dry, but that was not the case. Cooked perfectly and moist, the brisket was very good. My only complaint is I felt it could use a little more seasoning.
The other Texas staple, the original sausage, was also good. It did not fall apart when sliced, had nice flavor, and a nice hint of smoke. While enjoyable, nothing really set it apart, and it was probably my least favorite meat of the meal.
Let’s take an aside to talk about ribs. For whatever reason, I’ve really struggled finding solid pork ribs lately. Often overcooked, over seasoned or over sauced, and often overly fatty, this feels to me like a (mostly) lost art form. (Shame note: This has extended to my own rib smoking. Ole Speedy will be going back to the drawing board with his rib technique in 2024.) Well this was not a problem at Terry Black’s. Perfectly seasoned and cooked spare ribs, I was able to get a nice clean bite. There was also a nice, sweet (but not overly) glaze on the ribs, enhancing the smoky flavor of the meat.
OK, saving the best for last: the turkey (yes, I said it). Monk and I are both on record discussing our appreciation for good smoked turkey. Well, this turkey breast took the cake. Moist, buttery, well-seasoned, and with smoke and seasoning permeating every bite of the meat, this was the best turkey that I’ve ever had. While the perfect bite of brisket still shines as the top bite in barbecue, this turkey definitely deserves a seat at the table. It is an absolute must order and something I will dream about.
Rudy: I really don’t have anything to add other than to state that I am firmly in the anti-turkey camp. Mostly because there are so many things that I would rather have than it. Also, the worst part about this review is looking over it and looking back over my review of Terry Black’s in Austin from 2015. It makes me miss good barbecue so much (Editor’s note: Rudy moved to Michigan from Austin a few years back). I’m looking forward to the upcoming Pecan Lodge review because it may have been my #2 favorite place, definitely top 3, when I lived in Texas.
Speedy: Overall, I really enjoyed my visit to Terry Black’s Barbecue. I always worry about “chain” barbecue restaurants, but with only 3 locations, quality at this Dallas location was still on point.
Monk: In January, Trey’s Chow Down will be visiting Lockhart, Texas with episodes from four historic smokehouses. Here’s a trailer for those upcoming episodes.
Description: Trey’s Chow Down Road Trip’in the USA for Texas BBQ deliciousness.
This month in January stay tuned for all the HISTORIC TEXAS BBQ information and deliciousness from our trip to LOCKHART, TEXAS 👉 Smitty’s Market 👉 Black’s Barbecue 👉 Kreuz Market 👉 Terry Black’s BBQ
Name: The Original Ridgewood Barbecue Date: 12/2/23 Address: 900 Elizabethton Hwy, Bluff City, TN 37618 Order: BBQ pork sandwich with fries and blue cheese appetizer (link to menu) Pricing: $
Monk: I’ve mentioned a few times on this blog, but the parents and brothers of Monk have all relocated to Northeast Tennessee within the past few years so I’ve found myself in a part of the country just a few hours away from where I grew up that I had spent no time in my previous 40 years. It was only recently that I put together that The Original Ridgewood Barbecue, a joint I first read about on Marie, Let’s Eat!, was about 15 minutes north of my family’s houses on a mountain road which leads to Bristol Motor Speedway. One of my brothers had recently become a fan, so the extended Monk family arrived right at 11am on a Saturday to try and get in before the rush. And apparently there’s always a rush.
Before we got to the barbecue, the extended Monk family promptly ordered the blue cheese bowl appetizer. Its a house made blue cheese that is served overflowing in a bowl with packets of saltine crackers for dipping. It’s a little thinner than a traditional blue cheese, but its now a must order for me anytime I visit in the future. The blue cheese also works really well with their awesome hand cut potato fries if you can hold off finishing it until you get your fries with your meal.
Ridgewood’s barbecue is famously just the hams of a hog that are smoked over hickory (cut from the nearby family farm) for 8 hours before being chilled overnight with spices. The next day, the barbecue that is served from the hams is thinly sliced, warmed on a flat top grill, and dressed with their famous, sweet sauce and a mayo-based slaw. It’s unique for the area and the state, but its a good kind of unique.
While I didn’t have a full serving, I also tried some of the barbecue beef from my brother’s sandwich. The beef is taken from top round and sliced and prepared in much the same way as the pork barbecue, and I found it to hold the smokiness from the hickory smoke a little better than the hams. I might be tempted to go for that next time I visit.
After my visit, I grew to appreciate the family and the restaurant even more after reading “The Proffitts of Ridgewood: An Appalachian Family’s Life in Barbecue” about the Proffitt family which now has its third generation working at the restaurant. While it may be a completely unique style of barbecue unlike what I normally eat, The Original Ridgewood Barbecue is certainly worth seeking out. Its a northeast Tennessee institution that has been open for over 75 years.
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