barbecue

City Limits Barbeque has my favorite bite of the year

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Name: City Limits Barbeque
Date: 6/14/25
Address: 1119 Methodist Park Rd, West Columbia, SC 29170
Order: Quarter pound brisket, half pound chopped pork, chopped pork sandwich with crispy skins,1 mild sausage link, hash and rice, sweet beans, collards, shells and cheese, jalappeno pimento cheese (link to menu)
Pricing: $$

Monk: Have you been to a James Beard-nominated barbecue joint? There are only but a few of those around, so chances are you might not have. How about one that’s been nominated as a semifinalist twice in two years, believed to be the only joint to have that distinction? Well if you’ve been to City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia, SC, you can say that you have. It may also hold the distinction to be perhaps the only James Beard nominee to display their nomination next to a loaf of Wonder Bread:

My visit to City Limits had been years in planning before I finally made the trip. I had previously met owner and pitmaster Robbie Robinson through Garren Kirkman of Jon G’s but had only tried his food once before: his barbecue hash over Carolina Gold rice at last year’s Carolina Barbecue Festival in Charlotte. It was one of my favorite bites of the festival and on this day was a close second to my favorite bite of the day and possibly the year.

Speaking of which, the chopped pork sandwich with crispy skins mixed in holds that particular distinction. Robinson smokes pork shoulders as well as pork bellies over direct heat with just a salt rub and chops them together. You can choose whether to have the skins mixed in or not, but I beg you to please get the crispy skins mixed in. It’s then placed upon a nice hefty bun that can withstand the generous portion and you won’t be disappointed. I certainly wasn’t.

In addition to being a James Beard nominee, City Limits also has the distinction of being one of the top 50 Texas barbecue joints outside of the state of Texas according to Texas Monthly. I tried a slice of the fatty brisket and while Robinson wasn’t thrilled with the look of the slice I got when I spoke with him at the register, it was more than solid. Being a Texas-style joint, there were a couple of house made sausages on the menu, and I went with the mild hot link which was above average like the brisket. A few days later, I put these two leftovers together into a fold over on a piece of white bread with a dill pickle and had a great snack.

All of the sides at City Limits are scratch made, and there wasn’t a miss in any of the ones I selected: sweet (pinto) beans, shells and cheese, and collards which were Mrs. Monk-approved. I can’t forget to mention the jalapeno pimento cheese, which we saved to eat a few days later during our week at the beach.

Robinson likes to say that it’s better than the pimento cheese at the Masters, and after visiting myself earlier in the year for the first time I can’t disagree. My only complaint was that I didn’t buy a bigger tub of it; it’s a must get.

Unfortunately, Robbie and team (all of which were able to attend the awards ceremony in Chicago with him in person) did not take home the award for Best Chef: Southeast last Monday; instead it went to Jake Howell of Peninsula in Nashville. However in this case it’s not cliche to say that it’s an honor just to be nominated; particularly when its twice in two years.

If you get there during or just prior to the lunch rush at City Limits Barbeque, be prepared for roughly a two hour wait; that was our experience getting there at 10:30am Saturday before an 11am open. Another potential approach would be to wait until 2 or 3pm once the rush has died down. You may risk some items being sold out, but this past weekend I saw someone was still able to nab a beef rib so you never know.

In any case, don’t be a dummy like me and delay your visit to City Limits Barbeque in West Columbia.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 4 hogs
Pork – 5 hogs
Brisket – 4 hogs
Sausage – 4 hogs
Barbecue Hash – 5 hogs
Sides – 5 hogs
Overall – 5 hogs

Back in 2013, Rodney Scott and Sean Brock Threw an Epic Lowcountry Barbecue

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Monk: From the Sean Brock-hosted season of “The Mind of a Chef” that aired in 2013 (with narration from the late Anthony Bourdain), this has always been one of my favorite episodes from that series. The premise is simple enough: Sean Brock is throwing a party on Wadmalaw Island in South Carolina and invites his chef friends to help. In watching the below video, I think it’s fairly evident that I would’ve given anything to have been invited to this party back in 2013 when it was filmed.

First, for the whole hog he gives a little bit of background on the Ossabaw heritage breed of pig that he is going to roast. Originally brought to Ossabaw Island in Georgia in the 1500’s, they are descendants of Iberian pigs in Spain. A local farmer named Celeste Albers is helping to bring them back from the edge of extinction, and you get a little bit of her backstory.

Then, with the help of friend Rodney Scott, Brock preps the pig for smoking, and we get a little bit of the well-known backstory of Rodney. The smoking rig that day was a bit of a redneck-engineered La Caja China roasting box.

Then, Brock brings in James Beard Award-winning Chef Steven Satterfield of Atlanta to make Savannah red rice, a dish that is over 300 years old and which Satterfield calls the “paella of the southeast of the low country.”

Before the party can start, a rainstorm blows through but Brock and Scott are not deterred. They don a raincoat and flip the pig so it can be mopped with Scott’s signature sauce.

Next, Charleston chef Mike Lata comes in to cook frogmore stew, a staple of the low country. And before you know it, the party guests have arrived in their rain gear and are ready for the party to start.

The spread is an embarrassment of riches with all of the amazing food including the Rodney Scott whole hog and despite the weather conditions, looks like a good time was had by all.

Description: Chef Sean Brock invites friends to a BBQ outside of Charleston, South Carolina. Pitmaster Rodney Scott roasts a whole hog, Chef Steven Satterfield makes Savannah Red Rice, and Chef Mike Lata prepares Frogmore Stew. [Originally aired 2013]

How does Owens and Hull compare to the best Texas barbecue I’ve tried this year?

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Name: Owens and Hull
Date: 5/3/25
Address: 6255 Riverview Rd SE Building 4000 STE 100, Smyrna, GA 30126
Order: Whole beef cheek, half pound brisket, half pound turkey, cole slaw, cheese grits, mac and cheese, collards (link to menu)
Pricing: $$$

Monk: Gymnastics travels for the eldest Monkette recently brought us to the greater Atlanta area so the wheels started spinning when it came to a potential barbecue stop. Should I revisit the awesome Heirloom Market which I’ve only been to once but loved? Or take the family to the ever dependable Fox Bros? Perhaps revisit DAS BBQ or try and hit one of the old school spots still running like Old Brick Pit or Old Hickory House?

But referencing the United States of Texas Barbecue list of the best Texas barbecue outside of the state from last year, I realized there was a name I wasn’t familiar with at the number 3 spot located in the town of Smyrna outside of Atlanta: Owens and Hull. My plans were made.

After our gymnastics obligations were fulfilled, we made our way towards a newish mixed-use development in a an industrial area along the Chatahoochee River northwest of Atlanta proper. Owens and Hull is the brainchild of owners Robert Owens and Bryan Hull who rebranded what was formerly a Grand Champion BBQ (a restaurant that Owens owned) a few years back when Hull came on board. I can’t speak to the smoker setup before the switch but now they now have two rather large Primitive Pits offsets in the parking lot. By all accounts, the change in focus to Texas barbecue with Georgia wood and ingredients seems to be working.

The first thing that caught my eye was that they had beef cheek on the menu, an automatic order whenever I see it, and it was the standout of the proteins I tried that day and comparable to the beef cheek I had at Palmira Barbecue (#1 on the United States of Texas Barbecue list). My hope is that more places get on the beef cheeks train.

The brisket, a Friday and Saturday only offering, was not too far behind the beef cheek. Without asking, I was provided a mix of fatty and lean along with some burnt ends. This was probably the best of the true central Texas-style briskets I’ve tried in Atlanta over the years.

I opted for turkey instead of another protein like ribs or sausage, and boy was I glad that I did. Not only did it give me a respite from the heavier, fattier beef offerings but on its own merits it was rather good. Moist and juicy with a nice peppery bark, this was one of the better turkeys I’ve tried recently.

I did also get to try the pork from the sandwich of the youngest Monkette and it had a nice, smokey bark and was well smoked. As for the sides, the collards passed the Mrs. Monk test and the smoked macaroni was a winner.

For Owens and Hull, the more I think about it post-visit the more I am impressed. My initial impression was that the beef cheek was the standout by far but in hindsight the brisket and especially the turkey weren’t really all that far behind it. I really need to get back to Heirloom Market for a revisit soon (sadly that didn’t happen on this trip) to compare but for me, these two sit alone in the top tier of Atlanta barbecue (that I’ve tried).

As for how it compares to other places I’ve recently visited that are also on the United States of Texas Barbecue list like Matt’s BBQ in Portland, Shotgun Willie’s in Nashville, or Dampf Good BBQ in Cary? For me, its comparable with Dampf Good but a notch above Matt’s and Shotgun Willie’s. Certainly some of the best barbecue I’ve tried in 2025.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 3 hogs
Beef Cheek – 4.5 hogs
Brisket – 4.5 hogs
Turkey – 4.5 hogs
Pork – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 3.5 hogs
Overall – 4.5 hogs

Southern Smoke’s Matt Register Joins the OG Podcast

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Image via Register’s Facebook page

Matt Register of Southern Smoke in Garland, NC joined recently joined the OG Podcast to discuss among other things, barbecue and the Gettin’ Piggy With It Festival taking place in Raleigh on May 18th. But not before talking his allegiance to both NC State and Tennessee Volunteers (albeit in different ways). And in a few weeks, Southern Smoke will be opening for dinner on Fridays in addition to the current lunch service on Thursdays and Fridays.

In the below YouTube vid, Matt joins the podcast at roughly the 1:18 mark for a fun, informal chat.