United States Barbecue as explained by geography

Note: this article originally appeared earlier this year in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.

Monk: Phil Edwards is a Brooklyn-based journalist, producer, and digital creator who previously created videos on history, culture, design, and more for Vox. In this video, he sets his sights on barbecue and how and why different styles evolved across the US due to geography. Using a variety of historical maps obtained from Department of Agriculture Yearbooks from the 1920’s, Edwards explores barbecue through the lenses of meats, plants, and people.

Maps from a hundred years ago explain why certain meats caught on in certain parts of the country. Pork’s density in the eastern part of the US and in particular eastern North Carolina means that when you talked about barbecue on the east coast you meant pork. In Texas, beef and cattle has always been king and in the 1920’s it was even cheaper than pork (side note: can you imagine?). Meanwhile, the central United States had both and thus adopted both in their barbecue (think Missouri and Illinois).

Edwards then moves on to “plants” which refers primarily to the trees native to the area. While North Carolina has plenty of hickory trees, in Texas there is of course post oak and mesquite. Those woods contributed to the barbecue profiles those regions became known for. Agricultural resources also dictated the use of types of sauce in North Carolina or Kansas City (or the lack thereof in Texas).

“People” is the third element Edwards explores, and that influence is seen in sauce. The Great Migration of African Americans out of the American South, where molasses was prevalent, into places like Memphis, Chicago, and Kansas City eventually resulted in a thick, sweeter Kansas City-style sauce. Migration habits also explain the use of vinegar in both North Carolina sauces, mustard-based sauce in South Carolina, and the lack of sauce in Texas.

In the end, Edwards concludes that much like the United States itself, barbecue in the US is a melting pot of many things but he argues primarily of meats, plants, and people.

Linkdown: 5/1/24 – The It’s Gonna be May Edition

Monk: April was a busy month for ol’ Monk here, but we’re back with the first linkdown in a while. Hoping to get back to a more regular schedule now.

Native News

John Tanner on Bum’s in Ayden

The 40th Lexington Barbecue Festival will be on October 26

ICYMI

Non-Native News

John Tanner has started a “survey of SC barbecue and hash” if you want to follow along on his blog; here are the first entries

Damien Brockway of Distant Relatives and Deepa Shridhar are teaming up for a barbecue-Indian lunch service this week

Valentina’s Tex Mex BBQ‘s Buda restaurant is temporarily closed while they sell to new management

The Pit Room‘s second location is now open in Memorial, TX

On a recent trip to NYC, Daniel Vaughn finds some promise in Bark Barbecue, located in a stall in the Time Out Market food hall, but also finds that the city’s best barbecue days may be behind it

Congrats to Meat Church on 10 Years!

“Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook” is Kevin Bludso’s Big Personality in Book Form

Not that we’re anywhere close to being qualified enough to evaluate books but more so as a public service announcement we will periodically discuss barbecue and barbecue-related books.

Note: this article originally appeared last year in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.

Monk: You may know Pitmaster Kevin Bludso as a judge on two seasons of Netflix’s “Barbecue Showdown,” competing in season 1 of “BBQ Brawl,”or perhaps from his 10 appearances as a consulting chef on “Bar Rescue.” Before that, he made his name smoking barbecue in his hometown of Compton, CA at Bludso’s BBQ where the restaurant grew to as many as four locations in and around the Los Angeles area.

But as readers of “Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook” will find out, this California boy is just as much influenced by the town of Corsicana, TX where he spent summers working with and watching his “Granny” (technically his aunt) Willie Mae Fields operate an illegal BBQ restaurant and juke joint out of her house with his Aunt Jean and Aunt Alice. In addition to teaching Bludso how to cook barbecue “from the heart,” she also helped feed and take care of the community. Bludso still cooks briskets the same way his Granny taught him to this day 

Bludso begins his book by spending the first 30 or so pages telling that story as well as the story of his upbringing in the Watts neighborhood of Compton. From his Black Panther mother and LAPD father to his Uncle Kaiser who was an early barbecue teacher for his family to his Aunt Beulah who stepped in to raise his mom’s family when his grandmother was killed, Bludso came from a big family that influenced his barbecue journey.

Bludso then divides the rest of the book into the chapters by category. Some of them are the typical barbecue chapters on rubs, pits, meats, sides, and desserts but where Bludso differentiates his cookbook are the chapters that are curveballs. He spends nearly as much time on chapters for fusion barbecue, soul food, seafood, sides, breakfast, and holidays. This is truly his cooking style in cookbook form.

Bludso’s big personality is evident throughout the book, and he is not shy about using profanity so readers be warned if that’s something that might bother you. That being said, you can tell his voice has been captured unfiltered in these pages and credit for that is surely due Bludso as well as his co-author Noah Galuten. I would imagine the end result is the book he wanted to write in the way he wanted to write it.

“Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook” joins other notable books from black voices that have been released in recent years: “Black Smoke” by Adrian Miller in 2021, “Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ” by Rodney Scott and Lolis Eric Elie also in 2021, and most recently “Ed Mitchell’s Barbeque” by Ed and Ryan Mitchell with Zella Palmer in 2023. These four books help to fill out the black experience in barbecue and while all are worthy additions, there is still a lot more to be learned.

Ron Simmons Breaks Down the Carolina BBQ Festival

Monk: Ron Simmons of Master Blend Family Farms recaps his time at the Caroline BBQ Festival earlier this month, with some sound bites from satisfied patrons of the festival.

Description: The Master Blend Gang would like to thank the city of Charlotte again for the opportunity to enjoy making new friends, sharing great laughs, and celebrating the culinary experience of barbecue. You guys made this year a treat, and it did not go unnoticed. Be sure to take care of yourselves and each other. All Gas No Brakes 365!!