How the BBQ Community Rallied Around Western NC in the Aftermath of Hurricane Helene

Note: a version of this article originally appeared last month in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.

Monk: On September 27th, Hurricane Helene made its way to the mountains of North Carolina and wreaked once-in-a-hundred years worth of damage, referred on some accounts as “pure devastation and chaos.” Entire towns were reduced to rubble, roads and highways washed away from landslides, and hundreds of thousands of lives were changed forever.

Having grown up in North Carolina for nearly all my life, I (along with many others) have a fondness for that part of the state which is approximately 2+ hours west of Charlotte. Not only Asheville, the most well known of the affected cities, but smaller communities like Linville Gorge, Chimney Rock, Hot Springs, Hendersonville, Little Switzerland, and countless other towns set amongst the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains.

The barbecue community has unfortunately become quite good at responding to these types of events. The bad news is that the road to recovery is only beginning but the good news is that help is coming from a number of places: international and national organizations, barbecue restaurants from the unaffected parts of the state, and local restaurants in western NC that are in a fortunate position to help out.

As has become an unfortunately regular occurrence, World Central Kitchen and Chef José Andrés were on the ground pretty much from the beginning, much as they have done over the past 14 years in places such as Haiti, Türkiye, Syria, Gaza, as well as throughout the US. They have been offering hot meals to anyone affected by the natural disaster as well as first responders such as the National Guard, Army, and FEMA. In western NC they’ve set up their hub at Bear’s Smokehouse BBQ in Asheville and with help from Goldsboro-based Cheshire Pork they are feeding the communities of Asheville, Black Mountain, Swannanoa, Bat Cave, Bakersville, amongst others.

Similarly, Operation BBQ Relief is on the ground in Florida, Georgia, and NC offering free meals to individuals as well as bulk meals for churches, schools, or neighborhoods and Big Green Egg is also matching donations to Operation BBQ Relief’s Rally for Recovery fundraiser up to $50,000. And in an unfortunate circumstance, they are already on the ground for the next storm, Hurricane Milton, which is set to hit Florida this week.

In the central and eastern parts of North Carolina that weren’t affected as much by Helene, barbecue restaurants are also coordinating donations to bring safely to the mountains. In the Triangle region, both Lawrence Barbecue in Durham and Dampf Good BBQ in Cary collected donations of essential items such as bottled water, diapers, baby formula, while Clyde Cooper’s BBQ in Raleigh collected pet food and supplies and Blues on Franklin in Chapel Hill donated pre-cooked barbecue in addition to essential supplies.

Similarly, in the Charlotte Midwood Smokehouse collected essential items at their Plaza Midwood location for donation while Sweet Lew’s BBQ and the Carolina BBQ Festival used their already-planned Fall Pig Pickin’ on October 6th to collect donations and supplies for the relief effort before Sweet Lew’s set up at Regina’s in west Asheville on Tuesday to feed those in need. Jon G’s Barbecue conducted a blanket drive in preparation for the coming winter and also donated wood and supplies directly to Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue for their efforts (more on that later).

Then there are the barbecue restaurants in the western part of the state that are doing their part even as they were in the affected areas. In the small town of Little Switzerland off the Blue Ridge Parkway, the NC Historic Barbecue Trail joint Switzerland Cafe and General Store are not only offering free snacks, water, and over-the-counter meds in front of their cafe but are also acting as a central distribution center as well as a Starlink hotspot with a generator so folks can charge phones and make calls to reach loved ones.

Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue is a firefighter-owned barbecue trailer that regularly operates in cities between Asheville and Bryson City towards the far western part of the state. They too are also feeding people in need, in part from generous donations from Sysco, TMG Pits out of Knoxville, Jon G’s Barbecue, and even individual citizens.

Ben’s Backdraft Barbecue has also partnered with Unkie’s Seasoning out of Franklin, VA to donate a portion of sales of their seasonings and rubs to the Team Ryan Project to support firefighters and their families.

I will add, this is by no means a comprehensive list of all the barbecue restaurants and individuals throughout the state are conducting similar efforts, whether it be feeding those in need or first responders, collecting donations, or donating supplies. The road to recovery and rebuild in western NC is only beginning and will be marked in years instead of months, but one thing I’m certain of is that the barbecue community will continue to do its part long after the nightmare that was Hurricane Helene has left our memories.

If you are inclined to send money, you can donate to the North Carolina Disaster Relief Fund here.

North Carolina State Parks and Recreation staff raised the flag back at Chimney Rock on September 30th

Buxton Hall Barbecue’s 2023 closure was the latest blow for NC whole hog barbecue

Note: A version of this article originally appeared late last year in The Smoke Sheet, a fantastic national barbecue newsletter that I regularly contribute to. For more information on how to subscribe, visit bbqnewsletter.com.

Monk: In late October of 2023, Asheville’s Buxton Hall Barbecue officially announced that it will close for good after service a few weeks later on November 22nd, 8 years after bringing whole hog to Asheville’s South Slope neighborhood. 

This closure came roughly 15 months after Elliott Moss, who was instrumental in the creation and initial branding of Buxton Hall, abruptly left the restaurant as its pitmaster. Chef Nick Barr immediately took over as Executive Chef for Buxton Hall in July 2022 until the restaurant’s closing in late 2023.

Moss started the journey that became Buxton Hall Barbecue in 2013 in what was originally called “Buxton Hill Barbecue” (note the i), which promised to bring “All wood, Pit Smoked, Pastured Whole Hog Barbeque & Heirloom Southern Fare” to Asheville. It was originally announced as a partnership between Moss and Rodney Scott, then of Scott’s Bar-B-Q before starting Rodney Scott Barbecue in 2017, which made sense when you consider that Moss has family roots in the Pee Dee Region of South Carolina where Scott is also from. 

However, that original concept was confirmed as not moving forward a few months later in September 2013 via Twitter, with Moss starting to presumably work with the Chai Pani Restaurant Group on what would eventually become Buxton Hall Barbecue (note the a).

Buxton Hall finally opened in August 2015 to great acclaim, with Moss smoking the local, pasture-raised hogs from Vandele Farm in a North Carolina-made BQ Smoker situated in an open kitchen. In addition to the whole hog, Moss’s influence was seen throughout the menu whether it be chicken bog, a chicken and rice dish from eastern South Carolina, or waffle fries, harkening back to his time working at a Chic-Fil-A in Columbia, SC. The restaurant was an instant success, and soon it was named as a “Best New Restaurant” by Bon Appétit magazine. Moss wrote a barbecue book named “Buxton Hall: Book of Smoke” that was released in October 2016 and continued to be the face of the restaurant, appearing at barbecue festivals from coast to coast under the Buxton Hall Barbecue banner.

The success continued until the entire food industry was hit by the COVID pandemic starting in March of 2020, which began a period of challenges for the restaurant. The dining room was closed from March until July 2020 before a fire forced the restaurant to temporarily close and rethink its approach to smoking whole hogs indoors. It used the period to finish repairs and install new equipment, including a new Texas-style offset smoker designed and built by Moss. The dining room reopened over a year later in August 2021 and less than a year after that Moss announced that he had left the restaurant in July 2022.

Since then, Moss took 13 months to open his next restaurants – Regina’s Westside and a sandwich shop called Little Louie’s – but left those less than 6 weeks after their opening in the summer of 2023. He has since been working barbecue pop-ups under the name Moss and Moore Barbecue and has recently traveled to Texas to collaborate with Fort Worth’s Cattleack Barbecue. He is also utilizing his welding experience and is now building pits and grills as co-owner of the Velvet Moss Company, which recently released a portable grill called “The Priscilla.”

This unfortunately marked another setback for new school North Carolina whole hog barbecue. Wyatt Dickson exited Durham’s Picnic after 7 years and his other concept Wyatt’s Barbecue never opened in Raleigh after pandemic setbacks. Jake Wood has opened Lawrence Barbecue in Durham to great success but opted not to do whole hog and instead focused on a menu featuring all styles of barbecue in addition to oysters. And of course there’s Ed Mitchell, who recently released a barbecue cookbook but whose whole hog barbecue restaurant The Preserve still hasn’t opened in Raleigh. 

In February 2024, the Chai Pani Restaurant Group moved its flagship restaurant Chai Pani into the space formerly occupied by Buxton Hall. With that, it officially closed the book on Buxton Hall Barbecue which for many of the past few years was the westernmost whole hog outpost in the state of North Carolina.

However, not all is lost in terms of whole hog barbecue. In March of 2024, Elliott Moss posted an announcement on his Instagram about his future plans. Unfortunately, after 17 years Moss and his wife Jennifer are leaving Asheville, a city which he’s undoubtedly had a huge impact from a food perspective.

On the bright side, Moss will be continuing in whole hog barbecue. While the details and location are not known at this point and will be shared “a little down the road,” that is extremely promising news because I adamantly feel that the barbecue world is better with Moss active in it.

In the meantime, you can catch him and his food at the Carolina BBQ Festival in Charlotte on April 5-6. Tickets are on sale now and it features a great lineup for the 3rd year running.

Buxton Hall Barbecue’s Closure is the Latest Blow for NC Whole Hog Barbecue

Monk: Buxton Hall Barbecue has officially announced that it will close on November 22nd, 8 years after bringing whole hog to Asheville. In my latest for The Smoke Sheet published last week, I recap the history of Buxton Hall Barbecue and what its closing means to the state of new school North Carolina whole hog barbecue.

This article is exclusive to The Smoke Sheet. Want to read the full article? Subscribe over at The Smoke Sheet.

Previously on Buxton Hall Barbecue here at Barbecue Bros:

Linkdown: 8/21/23 – The Elliott Moss is Back Edition

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Monk: Elliott Moss’ post-Buxton Hall Barbecue plans have been announced. While he had been busy with opening his latest concepts – the breakfast and lunch comfort food spot Regina’s in West Asheville as well as the sandwich shop Little Louie’s – for the past 13 months, he has seemingly left both less than six weeks after they opened.

With his newfound free time, it seems as if Moss wants to continue his barbecue journey. Enter, Moss & Moore.

According to Moss & Moore’s first Instagram post, the first chance to experience their barbecue will be on the Sunday of Labor Day Weekend with their friends The Hound.

Moss & Moore will also be hitting the road throughout the southeast this fall as well:

  • September 29-October 1 in St. Simon’s Island, GA for Fire Box Soul
  • October 22 in Atlanta with Oyster South
  • October 28 in Dallas with Cattle Ack BBQ
  • November 11 at Holy Smokes Barbecue Festival in Charleston

Moss is also exploring his family history on the Moss & Moore Instagram page through a set of reels, which is well worth checking out. Glad to see Elliott Moss back in the barbecue game.

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