Allen & Son Barbeque – Chapel Hill, NC

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Name: Allen & Son Barbeque
Date: 9/6/12
Location: 6203 Millhouse Rd, Chapel Hill, NC 27516
Order: Chopped pork plate with hush puppies, cole slaw, fried okra; half rack ribs with fries and cole slaw (link to menu)
Bill: ~$30

Monk: It had been over a month since we last ate ‘cue together, so I knew just the cure to rekindle our barbecue bromance – stopping at Allen & Son Barbeque in Chapel Hill last weekend on our way to the Hopscotch Music Festival in Raleigh. Despite being a legendary NC barbecue joint in a part of the state where I spent a lot of time growing up, Allen & Son Barbeque was not on my radar whatsoever until very recently. Located just a few miles outside of Chapel Hill, they are a bit of a hybrid in that they cook pork shoulders like Lexington but use an eastern sauce.

Speedy: When you pull up to Allen & Sons, it’s pretty obvious that you’re pulling into a legit barbecue joint, as the building looks like it’s been there forever (though not in a rundown fashion) and the large smokehouse in the back is visible. The inside is also what you’d expect. An old school diner type of feel where they tell you to sit where you like when you enter and approach you as soon as you sit to ask if you’d like some sweet tea (but unfortunately not Cheerwine). Monk and I decided that we’re try both the real barbecue items on the menu, so we ordered a plate of the chopped pork and a plate of the ribs.

Monk: I’m not hyperbolizing when I say that the chopped pork at Allen & Son’s is probably the second best I’ve ever had, rivaling my personal favorite at Lexington #1. The pork is cooked perfectly with just the right amount of smoke, which can be attributed to the hickory logs which are still split out back with a chainsaw  (and is believed to be the only place in NC that splits its own logs). It is then sauced in the smokehouse with an eastern style sauce has some peppery kick and compliments the pork perfectly. I really can’t rave enough about how good the chopped pork here is.

Speedy: That’s high praise Monk is spitting over there, but it’s completely true. I can’t say enough how much I loved the pork. I was literally scouring my plate looking for stray bits of pork that I could eat. The ribs, on the other hand, are a different story. They were just flat out not good. They weren’t tender, stuck to the bone, and were chewy. The sauce tasted too sweet to me, and I say that as someone who enjoys a good St. Louis rib. It was a red, ketchupy sauce that just didn’t fit with the pork. I’d definitely advise that everyone stay away from the ribs here.

Monk: Being an eastern NC barbecue joint, the slaw is mayo based with some vinegar. It’s not overly sweet and has a nice tartness to it. Needless to say, I liked it more than Speedy. The fries were fine but not spectacular.

Speedy: Although I have a well-documented disdain for mayo, this slaw was OK as the mayo didn’t overpower. The hushpuppies were a little disappointing, as was the okra. Both were just plain and lacked any extra flavor that would set it apart from sides you’d get at your average ‘cue chain. Clearly Allen & Sons focuses its energy on it’s proverbial bread and butter – the chopped pork.

Monk: Judging on pork alone, this is one of the best joints I’ve ever been too. It looks the part of a true barbecue joint inside and out back owner Keith Allen himself chops hickory wood with a chainsaw like a bawse. It may be a little pricey for barbecue (Speedy note: you cannot put a price on that pork – it is incredible), but the service is solid and the food comes out quickly. Unfortunately, what really brings down the overall rating is the ribs. Obviously, if you ever make it to Allen & Son Barbeque, the Barbecue Bros plead with you to go solely with the chopped pork and avoid the ribs at all cost. You’ll be very glad that you did.

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance –  4 hogs
Pork – 5 hogs
Ribs – 1.5 hogs
Sides – 3 hogs
Overall – 4 hogs
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Allen & Son on Urbanspoon

Speedy’s Barbecue Inc. – Lexington, NC

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Name: Speedy’s Barbecue Inc.
Date: 7/14/2012
Location: 1317 Winston Road, Lexington, NC 27295
Order: Barbecue tray – Chopped pork, fries, barbecue slaw, hushpuppies
Bill: $8.50

Speedy: With Monk fresh back from a two week barbecue hiatus, we decided it would be best to hit one of the heavy hitters for our next barbecue experience. As such, we took a day trip up to Lexington to visit Speedy’s Barbecue Inc. Speedy’s sits just off Business 85 in Lexington in an unassuming brick building. It looks exactly what you’d expect a traditional barbecue joint to look like – complete with a smokehouse attached to the back. The front is adorned with a sign advertising Speedy’s as the “Best BBQ Anywhere” on one side and displaying their motto “Quality, Quantity, and Quick Service.”

Monk: So while I enjoyed the meal, I did a little research afterwards and learned that apparently Speedy’s cooks with electricity. This may explain the lack of smokiness (links here and here).

Rudy:  I know this is a legendary place, but how do we feel about it being cooked with electricity? I want to say that I don’t care as long as the taste is there. But it is still hard to get so much quality from electricity instead of a smoker. I feel like the electricity is cheating.  I saw a show on tv the other day where a barbecue place reheated their ribs in a microwave when they were ordered. Blasphemy.

Speedy: I’m a little dubious to the links mentioned above. While I trust the BBQ Jew, he only states that it’s not wood-burning. The other link is just a comment. Either way, electric smokers can produce good meat and the smokiness can be achieved by using hickory wood chips. I myself own an electric smoker (though as soon as I have a yard, I’ll be purchasing a big green egg). So while it’s not the best, I can’t hate too much on the electricity, if that is in fact accurate.

Monk: Ideally, I think barbecue should be cooked low-and-slow over burning wood. But the reality is, in North Carolina these days that is the exception rather than the rule (apparently something like 99% use gas or electricity, according to this interview with NC Barbecue Society founder Jim Early). In any case, barbecue was at the top of my list of things to eat as soon as I got back from my vacation abroad. So this quick road trip to Lexington was a perfect way to get some good barbecue and visit a spot that I hadn’t visited before. So Speedy, my question for you is how pumped were you to go to your namesake restaurant?

Speedy: I suppose I was pretty excited. Honestly, I probably haven’t been in ten years, because with Lex #1 just a mile or so away, there’s really no reason to go anywhere else in Lexington. I think it used to be open on Sundays (though apparently it is not anymore), which would give a reason to go. I do remember it being good, and for the sake of our readers, we thought it important to review as many places as possible. Of course I was super pumped to eat Lexington style barbecue (aka “the best style”).

Monk: The inside of Speedy’s is adorned with movie and tv posters from all eras, some of which are autographed, and is kind of kitschy in a non-pretentious way. We were seated with no wait and happened to be seated in front of a “Friends” poster with a cast-signed photo. A good sign, I guess?

Speedy: Sitting down and talking to the waitress was pretty amusing. She automatically assumed we were tourists – probably due to Monk’s incessant photo taking.

Rudy: I guess he wasn’t fully acclimated back from vacation yet.

Monk: …c’mon, it wasn’t that bad…

Speedy: She asked us if we had any questions and explained that they had a “local drink” called Cheerwine. Monk and I played along for a bit, though I did try to amp up my southern drawl to let her know it wasn’t my first rodeo. I think once we ordered, she realized that we were no amateurs.

Rudy: There you go with the Cheerwine stuff again.  I have grown a huge appreciation for my new Texas barbecue, but they have nothing to compare to that.  Just keep rubbing it in my face.

Monk: I feel like this kind of thing has happened a few times. Maybe we need someone to announce our arrival at each spot so folks know we aren’t messing around – whether it’s the difference between Eastern and Western NC barbecue or telling us what Cheerwine is. Nevertheless, I went to the bathroom and when I came back our order had already arrived – literally 2 minutes after we had ordered. Talk about “quick service” – the third “Q.”

Speedy: So Speedy’s is not just a clever name.

Monk: Excellent.

Speedy: The second “Q” mentioned in Speedy’s mantra is quantity and boy they aren’t kidding. The plate came piled high with plenty of pork, slaw and fries – too much for even a seasoned barbecue eater such as myself to finish. The pork is chopped fine, not pulled, which I personally prefer. It’s moist and tender and downright delicious. The waitress brought out an extra cup of dip (that’s Lexington for “sauce,” y’all) for us, and we did end up using it, though it probably wasn’t necessary. I like to add a little Texas Pete to my ‘cue as well, giving it a little bite and helping make sure it’s not dry. If I do have one complaint, it’s that the ‘cue did not have a noticeable smoke flavor. It’s easy to overdo it with smokiness, but I do think the hint of it is important. This is a minor thing, though, and I enjoyed the pork very much.

Monk: One thing I especially love about going to a proper barbecue restaurant is that the sides are choices in addition to hush puppies (aka “the way it should be”). We both went with fries and barbecue slaw – pretty standard for both of us. The hush puppies were pretty much spot on, the barbecue slaw was vinegary with a slight pepper kick as it should be, and the fries – well they were fries. I really didn’t eat too many of them since unlike Speedy, I was able to actually finish my huge portion of barbecue.

RudyI’m a little embarrassed that happened, and that he admitted to it.  If anything needs to be sacrificed, it is sides and not the meat.

Speedy: I will say this, I thought the slaw could have been a little colder. I really like the contrast of hot ‘cue and cold slaw when eating a proper barbecue plate. The taste and chop were good, but the temperature left me a little lacking. 

Monk: So while the barbecue “quality” (the first “Q”) was definitely strong-to-very-strong (albeit a notch or two below, say, Lexington #1), we can’t give it higher marks due to the lack of smoke flavor. But in a pinch, Speedy’s will definitely do. And they take credit cards, which isn’t always a given at these mom and pop barbecue joints.

Speedy: Overall, I was really pleased with my meal. It’s not the “best barbecue anywhere,” as advertised on the sign. Hell, it’s not even the best barbecue within a square mile. But it is pretty damn good. Did Monk and I drive an hour each way for a ten minute meal? Yes we did. Do either of us regret it even a little bit? Nope.  

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 3.5 hogs
Pork – 4 hogs
Sides – 4 hogs
Overall – 4 hogs

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The Salt Lick BBQ – Driftwood, TX

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Name: The Salt Lick
Date: 5/5/2012 
Location: 18300 FM 1826, Driftwood TX
Order: Family Style, all you can eat beef brisket, sausage, pork ribs, potato salad, cole slaw, beans, and bread (link to menu)
Bill: ~$25 per person

Rudy: With Memorial Day upon us, let’s get one thing straight: barbecue is not a thing you host (i.e. “We’re having people over for a barbecue”) –  that is a cookout. Barbecue is smoked meat. Growing up in North Carolina I always thought that only meant smoked pork. However, moving to Texas has taught me that BBQ also stands for beef brisket. And it is beautiful.   

Speedy: I think we all agree that barbecue is a noun, not a verb, and I’ll even agree that it can include brisket, ribs, sausage, or even chicken and turkey for the lady-folk, but we all know that chopped pork is the king of smoked meats. But we were in the heart of Texas, so I was willing to put aside my pre-conceived barbecue notions and sample some Texas ‘cue.

Monk: With that in mind, I was so very pumped that we were going to be able to make the 35 minute drive outside of Austin to Driftwood, which is truly in the middle of nowhere. Once you finally get there, the ranch itself is pretty impressive. In addition to the restaurant itself, which contains indoor and outdoor seating, the Salt Lick Cellar sells wine and champagne and there is also a banquet hall for events or weddings. Speaking of alcohol, that brings me to one of the best parts of The Salt Lick experience – it is BYOB. Just load up a cooler with all of the Lone Stars it can fit and have a seat while you wait for a table. Waits can potentially be long, though it only took our group about 20 minutes on a Saturday for lunch to get called. There was even a live band playing to entertain while you wait. Not a bad way to kill time while you prepare yourself for what’s to come.

Speedy: The first thing you notice when being walked to the table is the barbecue pit. It’s a circular stone pit with a wood fire and brisket, ribs, and sausage piled high on the grill. It is literally the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. We were seated at picnic tables and our incredible experience was about to begin.

Rudy: And incredible it was.  The menu allows you to pick and choose a meat or two a la carte, or for $19.95 you can pick the all you can eat option, which includes brisket, ribs, sausage, and 2 sides.  

Monk: Since we’re serious about our barbecue…

Speedy: …and because we’re men…

Monk: …we went with the all you can eat option, ordering baked beans and slaw to go along with our meal.

Speedy: The food came out relatively quickly, with the sides, bread, and a plate piled high with the meat. Clearly, this wasn’t going to be enough, so we ordered a second plate immediately and started digging in.

Rudy: I really enjoyed the sausage.  It had lots of flavor and did not have a hard consistency like it had been mass produced.  

Monk: I’m relatively new to Texas-style barbecue sausage, but I agree with Rudy that it had a lot of flavor. There are a few local places in Charlotte that try this style, and I’m becoming a fan the more and more I have it. This, obviously, was better than what we can get in Charlotte.

Rudy: The brisket was also very good, and could have been eaten without needing sauce, except for our 2nd (of 3) plate.  That brisket was very fatty.  However the brisket was still juicy and delicious overall.  

Speedy: Honestly, I was a little disappointed in the brisket. The good brisket we got was very good, but the second plate was really disappointing. I know brisket is really difficult to cook, but I was hoping for a bit more consistency between the briskets. Don’t get me wrong – it was still good – I just knew that second plate could be so much better. I do want to mention the sauce here. Provided to us was a spicy BBQ sauce that mixed really well this the brisket. I actually thought the sauce was so good that I found myself sopping up the leftovers on my plate with bread and eating that.

Monk: True that on the sauce. I had more bread than I reasonably should have just by doing exactly what Speedy just described. As for the ribs, they were very solid, with the tender texture you would expect from a reputable barbecue joint.

Rudy: My only complaint was the side dishes.  They put almost no effort into them and they were very disappointing.  But this is a Barbecue Blog and not a side dish blog, so we’ll move on.  

Speedy: Overall, we had a really great time. Big ups to Rudy for showing us his ‘hood and taking us to this great place.

Monk: Word. I’m not sure that I even ate anything the rest of the day – partly because I have a tiny stomach and partly because the food was just that good.

Rudy: The Salt Lick may not be the best barbecue in Texas, but it’s not too far off. The atmosphere itself puts it up there with the elites.  It was a great way to show Speedy and Monk that barbecue doesn’t just come from pigs.  

Ratings:
Atmosphere/Ambiance – 5 hogs

Brisket – 3 hogs
Sausage – 4 hogs
Ribs – 3.5 hogs
Sides – 1 hog
Overall – 4 hogs
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The Salt Lick Bar-B-Que on Urbanspoon