Friday Find: “Somewhere South” Explores Barbecue

Link to episode

Starting in Lenoir County, NC and making stops elsewhere in North Carolina as well as Tennessee, Florida, and Texas, Chef Vivian Howard seeks to expand her barbecue palette beyond eastern North Carolina whole hog and barbecued chicken.

I do love that while Chef Howard visits her good friend Sam Jones at Skylight Inn, she highlights the side of barbecue not often seen in barbecue media from turkey barbecue that’s becoming increasingly popular in African American communities to female pitmasters in a male dominated field to smoked fish to restaurants in Texas that celebrate the fusion of barbecue from different cultures.

At the very least, be sure to luxuriate in the Florida section where Chef Howard attends a “Cracker barbecue” (21:20) – don’t worry, they explain the name – as well as a smoked mullet competition (25:14).

Description:

Southerners are particular about the way they cook and eat barbecue. No dish says eastern North Carolina more than the region’s signature whole hog barbecue; however, the art of cooking meat over fire and smoke is one shared by all cultures. On a tour of eastern North Carolina barbecue joints, Vivian is reminded of traditions that define the area’s version of pork barbecue while being introduced to new techniques.

Flipping what she already knows about ‘cue, Vivian sets out to uncover buried barbecue histories and to learn about the unexpected ways that different types of meat are smoked, pit-cooked, wood-fired and eaten. We learn that barbecue—both the food and the verb— cannot be pigeonholed into one definition. On her journey starting from the whole-hog pits in her figurative backyard, Vivian learns the history of Black barbecue entrepreneurship, from the North Carolina families who started turkey barbecue to the women firing up pits in Brownsville and Memphis, Tennessee.

Curious about other iterations, Vivian travels to the west coast of Florida, where a storied “Cracker” history at a smoked mullet festival drastically changes her perspective on Southern ‘cue. She then heads further south to Texas, where robust barbecue techniques steeped in tradition are being morphed by longtime Texas families doing what they know best. This includes a pair of sisters in the small southern Texas town of San Diego adding a Tejano touch to their barbecue joint menu, and two Japanese-Texan brothers with a smokehouse that pairs brisket and bento boxes.

Linkdown: 5/6/20

Prime Barbecue in Knightdale officially opened its doors Tuesday, 5/5, and you can pre-order your food on its website 48 hours in advance of your desired pickup

Raleigh’s Ole Time Barbecue is doing a few new things during the pandemic including donating eggs from their personal chicken coop, preparing meals for frontline workers and running their $5 ‘pay it forward’ program that customers can donate to

Barbecue restaurateurs in Southern Illinois have come together to feed frontline medical workers

In a rare bit of good COVID-19 news, Portland’s Smokehouse Tavern back

Clark’s Barbecue in Kernersville, NC is one of likely many barbecue restaurants experiencing meat shortages

Evan LeRoy of LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue has started his own barbecue podcast, the New School BBQ Podcast

Congrats to Hanna Raskin of the Charleston Post and Courier for winning the Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award from the James Beard Foundation

If you haven’t watched the “How Do You ‘Cue” Episode of “Somewhere South”, do yourself a favor and check it out, particularly the Florida section on smoked mullet

Guest Post: “For The Love Of Smoke: Mastering Your Offset Smoker”

Monk: Happy National Barbecue Month! This week, we are switching things up a bit and have a guest post from Darren Weyland who blogs at BBQ Host where he shares “all of his tips, tricks, and best secrets for creating the best barbecue you – or any of your friends and neighbors – have ever had.”

If you are interested in contributing a guest blog post, email us at barbecuebros@gmail.com.

For The Love Of Smoke: Mastering Your Offset Smoker

Image courtesy of BBQHost.com

Offset smokers–also known as “horizontal smokers” or the more esoteric “stick burners”–are an essential addition to any barbecue lover’s grilling lineup. Don’t be put off by their intimidating appearance. It’s actually very easy to use an offset smoker once you get the hang of it, and the flavor it imparts (especially when it comes to favorites like slow-cooked pulled pork) is second to none.

Although there’s a definite trick to the technique, the rewards are well worth the effort. Once you’ve taken that first succulent bite, you’re sure to be hooked. To that end, we’ve listed several ways to help you make the most of your offset smoker purchase.

How They Work

You’ve probably seen an offset smoker before, even if you didn’t know what you were looking at. The units resemble large barrel-shaped grills, with a smaller compartment located off to one side. Sometimes, this attachment is located to the rear of the smoker instead. The food is placed in the larger compartment, while the fire is stoked in the smaller attachment. The heat and smoke from the fire feed into the cooking chamber, infusing the food with flavor.

How To Build The Perfect Fire

1. Don’t be tempted to start with wood. This will take too long and coat your food with a layer of unappetizing ash. You’ll get much better and faster results if you start your fire with regular charcoal, adding wood once you have a good blaze going.

2. Use a chimney starter to light the coals. If you prefer, you can substitute the lighter fluid method, but we don’t recommend this. Lighter fluid can upset the delicate flavor balance, which is the main reason you’re using an offset smoker in the first place.

3. Empty the lit coals into the fire box, as close to the cooking chamber as possible.

4. Gather your wood, using logs that are about 4 inches in diameter and 6 inches long. Using pieces of a uniform shape and size will help you regulate the temperature with a higher degree of accuracy.

5. Add a few pieces of wood to the fire box, without putting them directly on top of the coals. This will remove any excess moisture, giving you a more efficient fire.

6. When the logs have dried, place them atop the coals. Keep drying and adding new logs as needed to keep the wood flavor flowing into the main chamber.

7. Position the vents and chimney cap so that they’re open by about a third, and no more than half.

8. Check your temperature probe regularly until your fire has reached the desired temperature. If you notice frequent fluctuations, adjust the vents slightly, or add more logs as needed.

Other Tips

– Keep an eye on the weather forecast. Unlike gas grills, which can be used in all types of weather, offset smokers are greatly affected by ambient temperatures. This can adversely affect your cooking experience. Don’t fire up the smoker if the weather is particularly cold or windy.

– Start with a couple of inexpensive cuts of meat, prepared just for you and your immediate family. Once you’ve gotten a feel for how this particular smoker works, you can graduate to more complex cooking applications.

– Position a rack above the area where your fire will be hottest. Fill a disposable aluminum tray with water and place it on the rack. In addition to regulating the fire’s temperature, this will add flavor and moisture to your meat.

– Keep an eye on the smoke that pours out of the chimney once the food has been added. If you see a great deal of white smoke coming out, it’s probably because your logs weren’t sufficiently dry when you added them to the fire. If this isn’t the case, then the firebox might not be operating efficiently. Check the manual and examine the unit before you attempt to start another fire.

– Don’t add any food until your cooker has reached the desired temperature. This can add a layer of creosote to your finished product, which is both unattractive and unpleasantly flavored. Remember that an offset smoker gives off a great deal of smoke before the fire reaches its peak–far more than you might be used to from a traditional charcoal smoker.

– Keep the lids closed during cooking. Open them only to add wood to the firebox, to check the temperature, and to adjust the ingredients for even cooking (see our next tip below). For low and slow cooking applications, you won’t need to check the temperature that often anyway.

– When cooking meat, be sure to rotate it at least once to ensure even cooking. This is especially vital when it comes to larger cuts like pork butt and brisket.

There’s no question that offset smokers require more skill and attention than pellet grills or regular charcoal smokers. Fortunately, they also give you more control over the process–and therefore, over the flavor of the food. As long as you’ve followed our advice and paid attention to the quirks and demands of the unit, your offset smoker can yield consistently delicious results.

Thanks again to Darren from BBQ Host. If you are interested in contributing a guest blog post, email us at barbecuebros@gmail.com.

Linkdown: 4/29/20

More good from the Southern Smoke Foundation

Prime Barbecue was set to open a few weekends ago but that has been put on hold for the time being, as has any other businesss openings in Wake County

Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ to open a second Birmingham-area location in the town of Homewood

University of Texas football legend Cedric Griffin now has a barbecue truck in Austin

This week’s Somewhere South looks to be a must-watch for barbecue lovers

James Beard-award winning author Adrian Miller joined Vivian Hoard to tape the episode of “Somewhere South”

Thanks to The Smoke Sheet for featuring our recent post on mail order barbecue options in NC and SC in their latest issue

More coverage on the re-opening of Wilber’s Barbecue from the local paper

RIP Carter Brothers Barbecue in our hometown of High Point; it had been open since 1997 but will not reopen due to the coronavirus

D.G. Martin wonders what other great NC barbecue restaurants won’t survive either